triskele wrote: 
I wouldn't worry about a back splash.  Who's the plumber doing the faucet - Jim or Cole?

ok, does anyone know if you can buy a pre-made back splash for behind a kitchen sink? i am going to probably have to replace my faucet (because it leaks) and a buddy of mine also suggested putting up a back splash.

 cc_rider wrote: 
No hail and not much heat here either (NH) (and no warranty 'cause the roofer was a friend... but maybe I'll check the shingles packaging, we have some leftover).  Lots of snow though. 

From what I can tell, it looks like the roofer put a bead of tar to hold the shingles down.  But the shingles buckle juuust a little above the tar line, creating a little gap.  Our roof is not very steep, and I think when it rains thoroughly enough, the water is seeping under that buckled area and going where it aughtn't... getting through the tar paper at the nearest nailhole perhaps? 

It's not happening in valleys 'cause I think the roofer did some pretty thorough overlapping there.



The good news: I painted the gaps between the shingles with a thick coat of roof goo.  (In the attic, I could see exactly where the water was coming in (the roof is 1x6 boards on the trusses).  I think it worked!  We got heavy rain tonight, and no sign of wetness anywhere.  (This is how I finally fixed the first leak).  So I think my theory is correct.  Which may mean I need to paint the gaps of the entire roof at some point??

I love metal roofs.  I did the barn roof myself!  story and photos here. Yes, I'm proud.  

I'm hoping I've bought some time with this theory and the application of roof goo.  *fingers crossed* 

 rosedraws wrote: 
Depending where you live, a roof may indeed only last 14 years. Have you had hail storms? Hail and heat are the two biggest culprits. In fact in Texas, most roofers caution against spending extra for the 30-year shingles, apparently they do not last as long as the 20-year ones.

It is possible a roofer could repair the damaged areas, by removing a few shingles and replacing them. Obviously valleys and flashings and the like are the usual culprits. Worse, where the leak shows up on the inside does not necessarily indicate where the leak is on the outside: water can run between the roof and underlay until it comes out.

Since you've already replaced the roof, do you have any recourse to a warranty from the installer? I just don't expect a roof to start leaking like that, unless it's been damaged.

Metal roof-wise, be prepared for either a major cost, or periodic maintenance. The longest-lasting metal roof is 'standing seam', with no exposed screws on the roof. Screw-down metal roofs are less expensive, but the screws must be tightened or replaced every five to ten years or so. Plus of course, all those screws are potential sources of leaks.

What is your sheathing under the roof? Weak sheathing could be allowing the roof to leak too. My roof had the original cedar shakes, and at least two layers of shingles. Once all that was replaced with plywood and metal, the house felt much sturdier.

Roof advice?

We put a new roof on this house in November '95. 

It started leaking last year in one spot... no visible damage, just water coming in.  Last week a 2nd place on the other side of the house started leaking.  Again, no visible reason for the leak... just water coming in through the roof (not a valley or join or anything) during heavy rain, making a water spot inside.

Really, a roof only last 14 years?? 

Many many layers of trial-and-error roof goop fixed the first leak.

I've tried the roof goop on this second leak, we'll see if it works tonight (we're s'posed to get some storms.)

What this house REALLY needs is a metal roof (lightweight... the house is sagging and crimping bad).  I'm scheming some kind of barter arrangement... perhaps there's a builder who would like a website and ID package in exchange for labor...

This 2nd leak hit me hard because I feel like we can't afford to take care of this house.  I like taking good care of things.  It feels wrong for things to be not working.

This may seem like stating the obvious, but it's becoming apparent that car dealers, who have seen steep drop offs in new car sales, are looking to make up for the lost profits by increasing fees for parts and service.

Case in point:  Last week I replaced the power window motor/regulator unit on our Mazda van.  I was able to find the entire assembly on the internet (couldn't find a vendor who would sell the motor alone) for $80 with free shipping (1A auto parts in Pepperell, MA).  I called two local dealers to get their prices:  One wanted $240 for the motor only, the other wanted $330 for the motor only (and had none in stock).

I'm sure it would have cost around $500 if I had taken it to the dealer and allowed them to charge labor, disposal fees, etc.

So if you're a DIYer who tends to buy parts from the dealer (like those you can't get at the local Autozone, etc.) you should definitely shop around.

17 Clever Tips for Around the House

 Mot wrote: 
lol it's kewl :)

 Zissy wrote: 
Duh.  Now why didn't I think of that?

 Mot wrote: 
Howdy. :) Yep when you click on the before it will take you through the steps. :)

 Zissy wrote: 
Will there be an after?

Hi Zissy, 

CrookedBrains

I thought this was kewl to share. Hugs

 cc_rider wrote: 

We just did a sink change out with slightly different drainage arrangement.

Buy extra plumbing stuff if you don't know for sure and keep your receipt. I heartily agree with CC, good things come in 3's, like trips to HD and Lowes.

 katzendogs wrote: 
I wonder if the seal on the tip has gone bad? I haven't even attempted to use the real paint yet, just practicing with india ink, which is mighty thin.

Oh, I know a bit about industrial coatings too. I thought about POR-15 and similar stuff, I'm amazed how many different brands there are. The paint I'm gonna use is 'Dura Coat', designed especially for firearms. It's available in small sizes, which seems to be the biggest drawback to some of the hardcore coatings: you have to buy at least a gallon, and even then the suppliers will complain it's too small. The Dura-Coat instructions are very clear, complete with 'resting' time before painting. I just can't get the airbrushes to work right yet.

Eastwood Company has some pretty cool automotive-type finishes, from powder coat (too thick for firearms) to rust converters and chassis paints.

Now, if you want to paint a truck chassis for me, I'll bring it to you!

c.

 glassbuteo wrote:  Dig. I knew somebody here would have some pointers for me. The brushes I have are all DA. I'm planning use compressed CO2 when I finally do the actual painting, but I've got to learn a bit first. I might try another regulator: I've got at least three, maybe one will have better controlability.

I've been using brake cleaner to try and get the brushes ready to START painting. I've had them apart down to the gnat's whisker, and they are clean. The ink I'm practicing with is water-soluble, so cleanup is easy. However, the actual paint will be heavy-duty stuff, two-part epoxy, designed specifically for firearms. Dura-Coat is the name, and it's available in all sorts of wild colors, although camoflage colors are likely the most popular. I probably should have tried to get it in spray cans, but I already had the airbrushes so I thought I'd try to learn a new trick. Little did I know...

Thanks, I'll keep you posted!

c.

 cc_rider wrote:  It's all about atomization. 2 part epoxy's sometimes need an induction (sweat-in) time. Usually about 15-30 minutes. Cob webbing tells me your coating is too viscous. Try more reducer and higher air pressure. Light coats. It's easier to put it on than take it off. You will have a humidity problem here in Texas, so a decent separator is in order. As for start and stop spraying, first sign is the fluid tip is loose and sucking air. My knowledge is industrial coatings but I think it will apply to them girlie toys you want to play with!
Lemme know if you want me to spray them for you!

Okay, new question for the DIYers AND artists around here. I am trying to learn how to use an airbrush!

- I have three airbrushes. All 'inherited', so their actual condition is slightly suspect. They LOOK fine, and I've cleaned them fairly well.
- Two are siphon-feed, one is side-feed. I've got a bunch of extra jars, hoses, blah blah blah. Most of which I don't know what to do with.
- I have a bottle of Mont Blanc fountain pen ink, to use for testing and practice. I'm not pretentious enough to carry around the Meisterstuck my folks bought for me years ago, but I might as well use the ink for something.
- I have a large (60 gal) air compressor and several small regulators. I've been 'practicing' using the pressure at around 30 psi (as directed by one of the manuals that came with the airbrush).
- My goal is simple: spray two-part epoxy-type paint onto several small-ish parts. Car parts, gun parts, stuff like that. No finesse required, just smooth even paint coverage.

The problem? I cannot get the airbrushes to spray consistently! The paint (ink) stops and starts while spraying, which means I get too little, then too much paint. Spider legs everywhere. I don't know if the ink is too thin, the brushes are bad, whatever. I have disassembled them down to the bare parts, cleaned and re-assembled them (no small task, that) and they behave the same. WTF, over?

When I finally get to the actual painting, I'm going to use a CO2 tank instead of air. Because compressors are notorious for contaminating air and ruining paint jobs, and I already have the tank, complete with QR hose fitting installed. But I've gotta get the brush(es) working right before I step up to the real deal.

Anybody out there an airbrush expert? Or wanna become one?

Thanks!

c.

 ScottFromWyoming wrote: 
G is gonna get under the sink this weekend or next and change out the disposal... I have a feeling it's going to be a bigger job than just that, though (especially if I bat my eyes and ask him to put in a deeper sink for me, too ).

cc_rider wrote:

Yeah next time it blows out (we have a tiny house... HAVE TO keep things under the sink and bumps are inevitable) I'm going to completely re-work it all under there. Might involve an extra bend or two but I have to get the junk out of the way, and bulletproof.

I bought a crap sink when we re-did the kitchen, so maybe that'll be a winter project anyway.