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Room 3a - Proclivities - Oct 18, 2019 - 11:19am
 
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Index » Radio Paradise/General » General Discussion » DIY Page: 1, 2, 3 ... 46, 47, 48  Next
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Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: Aug 30, 2019 - 2:32pm

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:


 R_P wrote:
 

always looking for new members

Ready to unload his sack

A man brings a deposit of the white stuff



 
oh, dear
ScottFromWyoming

ScottFromWyoming Avatar

Location: Powell
Gender: Male


Posted: Aug 30, 2019 - 2:04pm



 R_P wrote:
 

always looking for new members

Ready to unload his sack

A man brings a deposit of the white stuff



R_P

R_P Avatar



Posted: Aug 30, 2019 - 11:36am

Volunteers polish giant’s erection by hand
Alexandra

Alexandra Avatar

Location: PNW
Gender: Female


Posted: May 29, 2019 - 11:26am

 westslope wrote:
Alexandra:  Perhaps places like The Hardware Hut might help?

Furniture rails hardware seem to work as descriptors to use in a meta-search engine like Bing or Google.

 

Thanks - the closets are done now with new stuff.
The main problem was warped/bowed doors.
westslope

westslope Avatar

Location: BC sage brush steppe


Posted: May 29, 2019 - 9:46am

Alexandra:  Perhaps places like The Hardware Hut might help?

Furniture rails hardware seem to work as descriptors to use in a meta-search engine like Bing or Google.
Alexandra

Alexandra Avatar

Location: PNW
Gender: Female


Posted: May 29, 2019 - 7:24am

 JrzyTmata wrote:


 Alexandra wrote:
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
 

who is we? did you get a new cat?

 

One of my bestest friends (and musical collaborators) who's been doing the lion's share of all this DIY out of the goodness of his heart.


ScottFromWyoming

ScottFromWyoming Avatar

Location: Powell
Gender: Male


Posted: May 28, 2019 - 3:00pm



 JrzyTmata wrote:


 Alexandra wrote:
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
 

who is we? did you get a new cat?

  



JrzyTmata

JrzyTmata Avatar



Posted: May 28, 2019 - 2:50pm



 Alexandra wrote:
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
 

who is we? did you get a new cat?
oldviolin

oldviolin Avatar

Location: esse quam videri
Gender: Male


Posted: May 28, 2019 - 1:12pm



 Alexandra wrote:

 
We decided to go with new doors/rails and get rid of the warped ones. So...never mind.

 



Alexandra

Alexandra Avatar

Location: PNW
Gender: Female


Posted: May 24, 2019 - 4:49am

 Alexandra wrote:


Yes - I'm about to move in to the house on Tuesday - but I may be able to get a pic tonight when I take a load of stuff over there. Thanks!
EDIT: The former owner (or who knows, maybe even one before her) had the doors off and stored in a shed before I moved in - I opted to put them back on. So they also might be slightly bowed from being in extreme temps out there (one is for sure). And that could be part of the problem.

 
 
We decided to go with new doors/rails and get rid of the warped ones. So...never mind.

Alexandra

Alexandra Avatar

Location: PNW
Gender: Female


Posted: May 20, 2019 - 7:33am

 oldviolin wrote:


 Alexandra wrote:
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
 

A lot of those are pretty standard but is it possible to take pics and post?

 

Yes - I'm about to move in to the house on Tuesday - but I may be able to get a pic tonight when I take a load of stuff over there. Thanks!
EDIT: The former owner (or who knows, maybe even one before her) had the doors off and stored in a shed before I moved in - I opted to put them back on. So they also might be slightly bowed from being in extreme temps out there (one is for sure). And that could be part of the problem.
oldviolin

oldviolin Avatar

Location: esse quam videri
Gender: Male


Posted: May 20, 2019 - 4:09am



 Alexandra wrote:
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
 

A lot of those are pretty standard but is it possible to take pics and post?
Alexandra

Alexandra Avatar

Location: PNW
Gender: Female


Posted: May 19, 2019 - 11:35pm

I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: Sep 28, 2017 - 2:13pm

 aflanigan wrote:
I wrote a prose poem in honor of having finally reassembled the family minivan after doing a "top end" overhaul. Apologies to Abraham Lincoln.

Four years and several days ago, our local emissions testing center
brought forth upon the family van an emissions test rejection
triggered by a misfire, provoked by a failed exhaust valve.

Now, having engaged in a great diagnostic/repair effort, involving dozens of disassembly and assembly steps,
and having suffered repeated bouts of projectus interruptus
it has come to pass that the failed exhaust valve has been replaced; that the valve stem seals and hydraulic lash adjusters have been replaced also;
and that compression and oil rings have been replaced on the number 5 piston;
new TTY head bolts, spark plugs, cylinder head and sundry other gaskets having been replaced, and the disassembled components having been reassembled utilizing
all manner of sundry fasteners, bolts, nuts, clips, hose and electrical connectors;
whereupon the key has been turned, and the engine doth run with a rythym most soothing and efficient.



 
{#Clap}
aflanigan

aflanigan Avatar

Location: At Sea
Gender: Male


Posted: Sep 28, 2017 - 6:42am

I wrote a prose poem in honor of having finally reassembled the family minivan after doing a "top end" overhaul. Apologies to Abraham Lincoln.

Four years and several days ago, our local emissions testing center
brought forth upon the family van an emissions test rejection
triggered by a misfire, provoked by a failed exhaust valve.

Now, having engaged in a great diagnostic/repair effort, involving dozens of disassembly and assembly steps,
and having suffered repeated bouts of projectus interruptus
it has come to pass that the failed exhaust valve has been replaced; that the valve stem seals and hydraulic lash adjusters have been replaced also;
and that compression and oil rings have been replaced on the number 5 piston;
new TTY head bolts, spark plugs, cylinder head and sundry other gaskets having been replaced, and the disassembled components having been reassembled utilizing
all manner of sundry fasteners, bolts, nuts, clips, hose and electrical connectors;
whereupon the key has been turned, and the engine doth run with a rythym most soothing and efficient.




Lazy8

Lazy8 Avatar

Location: The Gallatin Valley of Montana
Gender: Male


Posted: May 31, 2017 - 1:42pm

 Red_Dragon wrote:
Room is on the south end (back) of the house. Trees in the neighbors yard block the worst of the late afternoon sun. The mulberry tree that provided some shade from the other direction was just removed because, nasty mulberry tree. Our pergola provides some shade to the south windows, but not the east ones. The window unit will go in one of the east windows.

In a similar situation (SoCal) we were able to make a large difference in indoor temperature by adding roll-up shades to the eaves of the house. Drop those to stop direct sunlight (not just on the windows, but the whole south end of the house) and we were able to reduce the house temperature by 20F.

Your situation is a bit more challenging with no attic above the ceiling, so don't expect as dramatic a difference, but that was a zero-energy and very low cost improvement.
Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: May 31, 2017 - 11:18am

 Lazy8 wrote:
Which side of the house is the room on? Can you do anything to shade the exterior, especially the windows?

 
Room is on the south end (back) of the house. Trees in the neighbors yard block the worst of the late afternoon sun. The mulberry tree that provided some shade from the other direction was just removed because, nasty mulberry tree. Our pergola provides some shade to the south windows, but not the east ones. The window unit will go in one of the east windows.
Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: May 31, 2017 - 11:15am

 islander wrote:

The window unit will drain outside, it's more a matter of if there is enough volume past the coils to get the condensate to drip off instead of just sitting there and re-evaporating back into the room, or sitting there and corroding out the joints on the coil.   You're probably just fine, these are all valid considerations, but within the parameters of what you want to do and spend it sounds like you are pretty much there. 

Other random thoughts to get bogged down with - insulate the room? what's the roof like? can you make it white to reduce the solar impact? How about just calling it a sauna and declaring it a feature - you're in trumpland after all!

 
Insulating the room - or the roof - would require removing and replacing all the drywall. I'm not going there.
Lazy8

Lazy8 Avatar

Location: The Gallatin Valley of Montana
Gender: Male


Posted: May 31, 2017 - 11:12am

 Red_Dragon wrote:
The room is maybe 50sf; probably a bit less. There is no attic space above it, and it has four windows and an exterior door. The bathroom window (which used to be on the back of the house) opens into the room and we have a small window fan in that for evacuating the humidity from the bathroom after a shower. I tried running this fan during the summer to try and move some cool air into the laundry room, but it didn't seem to help much. Yes, the unit I'm considering is 5k btu.

Which side of the house is the room on? Can you do anything to shade the exterior, especially the windows?
islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: May 31, 2017 - 11:09am

 Red_Dragon wrote:

Less than 400cf of air - not including all the stuff in the room taking up space.

The only affordable options I see on line are free-standing units that take up space that we don't have; the room is pretty cramped already. The smallest window unit I can find is 5k btu, probably more than the area needs, but the walls/windows are not terribly energy efficient. Hopefully the unit has provision for draining condensate outside.

 
The window unit will drain outside, it's more a matter of if there is enough volume past the coils to get the condensate to drip off instead of just sitting there and re-evaporating back into the room, or sitting there and corroding out the joints on the coil.   You're probably just fine, these are all valid considerations, but within the parameters of what you want to do and spend it sounds like you are pretty much there. 

Other random thoughts to get bogged down with - insulate the room? what's the roof like? can you make it white to reduce the solar impact? How about just calling it a sauna and declaring it a feature - you're in trumpland after all!
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