What sort of bit does one use to drill a hole in ceramic tile?
Carbide tip masonry bit. FIRST make a nick with a sharp awl or something to scratch it, then I use a very small bit to start. Put some masking tape or duct tape on it first, to help keep the bit from walking. The bit should also have a sharp point to help it stay put. You have to get through the glazing carefully. Once you get the small bit thru the harder outside, you can go to the full size bit. If you sprang for a new super hard diamond tip masonry bit, you might not need to do the small/large bit thing, but I go with what got me here. DO NOT apply much pressure. I keep the bit speed pretty fast but not maxRPM, and pressure very very light. It will go, eventually, but it takes patience.
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
who is we? did you get a new cat?
One of my bestest friends (and musical collaborators) who's been doing the lion's share of all this DIY out of the goodness of his heart.
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardwareâI think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardwareâI think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
Yes - I'm about to move in to the house on Tuesday - but I may be able to get a pic tonight when I take a load of stuff over there. Thanks! EDIT: The former owner (or who knows, maybe even one before her) had the doors off and stored in a shed before I moved in - I opted to put them back on. So they also might be slightly bowed from being in extreme temps out there (one is for sure). And that could be part of the problem.
We decided to go with new doors/rails and get rid of the warped ones. So...never mind.
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
A lot of those are pretty standard but is it possible to take pics and post?
Yes - I'm about to move in to the house on Tuesday - but I may be able to get a pic tonight when I take a load of stuff over there. Thanks! EDIT: The former owner (or who knows, maybe even one before her) had the doors off and stored in a shed before I moved in - I opted to put them back on. So they also might be slightly bowed from being in extreme temps out there (one is for sure). And that could be part of the problem.
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardwareâI think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
A lot of those are pretty standard but is it possible to take pics and post?
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
I wrote a prose poem in honor of having finally reassembled the family minivan after doing a "top end" overhaul. Apologies to Abraham Lincoln.
Four years and several days ago, our local emissions testing center brought forth upon the family van an emissions test rejection triggered by a misfire, provoked by a failed exhaust valve.
Now, having engaged in a great diagnostic/repair effort, involving dozens of disassembly and assembly steps, and having suffered repeated bouts of projectus interruptus, it has come to pass that the failed exhaust valve has been replaced; that the valve stem seals and hydraulic lash adjusters have been replaced also; and that compression and oil rings have been replaced on the number 5 piston; new TTY head bolts, spark plugs, cylinder head and sundry other gaskets having been replaced, and the disassembled components having been reassembled utilizing all manner of sundry fasteners, bolts, nuts, clips, hose and electrical connectors; whereupon the key has been turned, and the engine doth run with a rythym most soothing and efficient.
I wrote a prose poem in honor of having finally reassembled the family minivan after doing a "top end" overhaul. Apologies to Abraham Lincoln.
Four years and several days ago, our local emissions testing center brought forth upon the family van an emissions test rejection triggered by a misfire, provoked by a failed exhaust valve.
Now, having engaged in a great diagnostic/repair effort, involving dozens of disassembly and assembly steps, and having suffered repeated bouts of projectus interruptus, it has come to pass that the failed exhaust valve has been replaced; that the valve stem seals and hydraulic lash adjusters have been replaced also; and that compression and oil rings have been replaced on the number 5 piston; new TTY head bolts, spark plugs, cylinder head and sundry other gaskets having been replaced, and the disassembled components having been reassembled utilizing all manner of sundry fasteners, bolts, nuts, clips, hose and electrical connectors; whereupon the key has been turned, and the engine doth run with a rythym most soothing and efficient.
Room is on the south end (back) of the house. Trees in the neighbors yard block the worst of the late afternoon sun. The mulberry tree that provided some shade from the other direction was just removed because, nasty mulberry tree. Our pergola provides some shade to the south windows, but not the east ones. The window unit will go in one of the east windows.
In a similar situation (SoCal) we were able to make a large difference in indoor temperature by adding roll-up shades to the eaves of the house. Drop those to stop direct sunlight (not just on the windows, but the whole south end of the house) and we were able to reduce the house temperature by 20F.
Your situation is a bit more challenging with no attic above the ceiling, so don't expect as dramatic a difference, but that was a zero-energy and very low cost improvement.
Which side of the house is the room on? Can you do anything to shade the exterior, especially the windows?
Room is on the south end (back) of the house. Trees in the neighbors yard block the worst of the late afternoon sun. The mulberry tree that provided some shade from the other direction was just removed because, nasty mulberry tree. Our pergola provides some shade to the south windows, but not the east ones. The window unit will go in one of the east windows.
The window unit will drain outside, it's more a matter of if there is enough volume past the coils to get the condensate to drip off instead of just sitting there and re-evaporating back into the room, or sitting there and corroding out the joints on the coil. You're probably just fine, these are all valid considerations, but within the parameters of what you want to do and spend it sounds like you are pretty much there.
Other random thoughts to get bogged down with - insulate the room? what's the roof like? can you make it white to reduce the solar impact? How about just calling it a sauna and declaring it a feature - you're in trumpland after all!
Insulating the room - or the roof - would require removing and replacing all the drywall. I'm not going there.
