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Index » Radio Paradise/General » General Discussion » Automobile Repair Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
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westslope

westslope Avatar

Location: BC sage brush steppe


Posted: May 8, 2021 - 9:52am

 kurtster wrote:

Could very well be.  Do you have an O2 sensor in your cat ?  My 2004 Civic does and it needed replacing not so long ago.  Natch, it was the $400 one of the two.  The dealer did that one.  Replacing the whole exhaust system as a whole at one time is best if you can afford it.  You need to have it plugged into a computer and formally diagnosed.

An exhaust manifold leak is not a major worry IF, it is a small one that seals itself once the manifold heats up and expands.  Start the engine stone cold and listen for a distinct tick.  That would be the leak.  Could be a gasket or a crack.  If it is a tiny one, the tick should disappear when the engine warms fully up.  If you still hear it when the engine is hot, then you should think about dealing with it.  I would deal with the cat back first and see if that solves your problems.  If it doesn't, you will not be costing yourself any extra labor servicing it by itself as opposed to doing everything at once including the manifold.  

Is this the car or the truck ?  If it's your truck, you already invested a lot with the hope that it will last.  Worth dealing with the exhaust properly.  Your Kia ?  Might be time to cut your losses and think something different.  Judgement call.

One more thing about exhaust manifold leaks.  You can buy a lot of time by completely warming up the engine before driving.  Putting a driving type speed on a cold manifold will cause more stress and make the leak bigger, quicker.  I hope that makes sense.  Learned this back in my small block Chevy 350 days.  That was back in the late 70's.  My old coffee truck daze.  It ended up that I was working for the truck to keep it running rather than to keep me eating.  My greatest accomplishment back then was swapping a piston with cracked rings in 45 minutes from the time I pulled the truck into the bay.  By myself.  Went at it from the bottom.  Took the oil pan off, undid the crank bearings, pulled it out and shoved a spare used one right back up and put it back together.  Fired it up and it held till I gave up the truck and got out from that bizness altogether.  And I did put a new gasket on the pan in those 45 minutes. 





kurtster:  The 'truck' is a 4.0 litre V6 2006 Nissan Xterra with two banks of Air fuel and O2 sensors.  The Air fuel sensors sit upstream of the primary catalytic converter; the O2 sensors sit behind/downstream of the primary catalytic converter.

Yesterday, I did a run to recycle depot at the dump and everything worked well.  Vacuum readings looked fine (I think).  Last summer when I would get catalytic converter codes, it usually happened after a rain.  Have refreshed most of the grounds on the vehicle.  Rain might be cooling the primary cats and this why I am getting the codes (via the android Torque Pro app), I am not at all sure, as I have yet to find vehicle owners with a similar experience.

An exhaust manifold leak is one possible explanation of rich fuel trims and failing catalytic converters.  Had one of the WD21 Nissan pathfinder (1993) which was a real 'truck' like SUV unlike the more recent unichassis models of the Pathfinder.  The exhaust manifolds would warp from heat.  That is not an issue with second generation Nissan Xterras.

I never let the 'truck' idle for any length of time unless working on it.   Idling vehicles for any length of time is generally a really bad idea, especially for gasoline engines.  It might be a good idea for diesel engines cold-started in -40C but those conditions apply to very few individuals. 

BTW, the Xterra idles very smoothly — at 625 rpms or higher if it has been recently working hard, e.g., 675 rpms.  

I recently replaced Bank 2 (driver side) Sensor 1 (Air fuel ratio sensor) with a NTK (made by NGK) OEM one.   It replaced a Denso A/F sensor.  

The voltage still fluctuates as high 1.3 which is, in theory, beyond the normal range.   Most of the time, the voltages are stable and at expected average values.  BTW, lots of owners have used Denso A/F sensors in Nissan Xterras and Frontier trucks with no issue.   Like so many vehicles, they can be finicky about aftermarket parts, especially sensors.   Now I have two spares A/F sensor — one brand new (NTK) and one used one in good condition (Denso).

LTFTs — long-term fuel trims — are sitting at 0 most of the time and staying under 5% if deviating from zero.  Switching out the spark plugs earlier this year appears to have helped.  Spark plug replacement might have been overdue, I don't know.   Sometimes the engine control unit (ECU) takes a while to re-learn once the battery has been disconnected for a bit.

This may come across as OCD, anal, etc.  Here is the thing.  If I get stuck way back in the bush I am looking at a day to 2 day hike to get out/find help, etc.  That and a super expensive tow bill. 




oldviolin

oldviolin Avatar

Location: esse quam videri
Gender: Male


Posted: May 8, 2021 - 7:37am

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:














Hot as a firecracker! 
KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 7, 2021 - 9:20pm

 oldviolin wrote:


Ok great! But WBMBIT?












kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: May 7, 2021 - 8:51pm

 westslope wrote:



kurt:  It could be that my catalytic converters are getting ready to be replaced.  Not 100% sure.  Even aftermarket cats are expensive.  Should replace the muffler and exhaust pipes while at it.

I tested once for vacuum leaks using a can of brake fluid.  Wonder if I should that again with a propane torch.   I might have a tiny exhaust manifold leak but from above I do not notice it.

Wish I had a better understanding of how to interpret the Boost/vacuum readings my OBD-II scanners provide......


Could very well be.  Do you have an O2 sensor in your cat ?  My 2004 Civic does and it needed replacing not so long ago.  Natch, it was the $400 one of the two.  The dealer did that one.  Replacing the whole exhaust system as a whole at one time is best if you can afford it.  You need to have it plugged into a computer and formally diagnosed.

An exhaust manifold leak is not a major worry IF, it is a small one that seals itself once the manifold heats up and expands.  Start the engine stone cold and listen for a distinct tick.  That would be the leak.  Could be a gasket or a crack.  If it is a tiny one, the tick should disappear when the engine warms fully up.  If you still hear it when the engine is hot, then you should think about dealing with it.  I would deal with the cat back first and see if that solves your problems.  If it doesn't, you will not be costing yourself any extra labor servicing it by itself as opposed to doing everything at once including the manifold.  

Is this the car or the truck ?  If it's your truck, you already invested a lot with the hope that it will last.  Worth dealing with the exhaust properly.  Your Kia ?  Might be time to cut your losses and think something different.  Judgement call.

One more thing about exhaust manifold leaks.  You can buy a lot of time by completely warming up the engine before driving.  Putting a driving type speed on a cold manifold will cause more stress and make the leak bigger, quicker.  I hope that makes sense.  Learned this back in my small block Chevy 350 days.  That was back in the late 70's.  My old coffee truck daze.  It ended up that I was working for the truck to keep it running rather than to keep me eating.  My greatest accomplishment back then was swapping a piston with cracked rings in 45 minutes from the time I pulled the truck into the bay.  By myself.  Went at it from the bottom.  Took the oil pan off, undid the crank bearings, pulled it out and shoved a spare used one right back up and put it back together.  Fired it up and it held till I gave up the truck and got out from that bizness altogether.  And I did put a new gasket on the pan in those 45 minutes. 



westslope

westslope Avatar

Location: BC sage brush steppe


Posted: May 7, 2021 - 10:09am




kurt:  It could be that my catalytic converters are getting ready to be replaced.  Not 100% sure.  Even aftermarket cats are expensive.  Should replace the muffler and exhaust pipes while at it.

I tested once for vacuum leaks using a can of brake fluid.  Wonder if I should that again with a propane torch.   I might have a tiny exhaust manifold leak but from above I do not notice it.

Wish I had a better understanding of how to interpret the Boost/vacuum readings my OBD-II scanners provide......

oldviolin

oldviolin Avatar

Location: esse quam videri
Gender: Male


Posted: May 7, 2021 - 7:52am

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:

Yeah. I have one in my right bank exhaust on my truck.
The only reason is for the Stoichiometric Gauge in my dash.
Helps with tuning my Six Pack.



Ok great! But WBMBIT?

KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 6, 2021 - 9:00pm

 westslope wrote:

What I had in mind are the upstream O2 sensors, technically known as Air-fuel ratio sensors.

The voltages are supposed to fluctuate between 0 and 1.  One of mine (Bank 2, Sensor 1) will fluctuate as high 1.3 on occasion.  Not supposed to do that.  Otherwise, idle is low and smooth, acceleration is smooth.  Exhaust is clean, does not smell, etc.



Yeah. I have one in my right bank exhaust on my truck.
The only reason is for the Stoichiometric Gauge in my dash.
Helps with tuning my Six Pack.

westslope

westslope Avatar

Location: BC sage brush steppe


Posted: May 6, 2021 - 4:59pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:

I have a Fuel/ Air gauge in my dash... know how to wire it up... don't know the voltage/ trims to the gauge.


What I had in mind are the upstream O2 sensors, technically known as Air-fuel ratio sensors.

The voltages are supposed to fluctuate between 0 and 1.  One of mine (Bank 2, Sensor 1) will fluctuate as high 1.3 on occasion.  Not supposed to do that.  Otherwise, idle is low and smooth, acceleration is smooth.  Exhaust is clean, does not smell, etc.


KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 6, 2021 - 4:48pm

 westslope wrote:

This is a long shot.  

Does anybody here know anything about Air fuel ratio sensor voltages and fuel trims?


I have a Fuel/ Air gauge in my dash... know how to wire it up... don't know the voltage/ trims to the gauge.

kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: May 5, 2021 - 10:20am

 westslope wrote:


k:  $1,500 compared to buying another vehicle either new or used?  Bargain.  All those items are mid-life replacements that will keep the vehicle safe and ready to go for what?....  Another 150K miles?   If the chassis and motor block are in good condition, you are golden.   $$$ in the bank.  

At least you have a very good idea of what should be done and how.  The kind of understanding that only comes from years of do-it-yourself wrenching. 


Oh, absolutely.  I just put a grand into it last year replacing all the brake lines and rear wheel cylinders.  Put new door hinges on the driver door, too.  It's a 2 door and those doors are heavy.  It was opening and dropping.  Now it just opens and closes, like it is supposed to.  The body is otherwise still decent with early rust, should get another 5 years.  140 k on the clock.  5 speed stick, with original clutch.  It was my dad's car.  Got it about 10 years ago with 33k on the clock when he quit driving.

FWIW, I'm pretty good on clutches.  Got 225 k out of the original on my old Saturn SL.

cc_rider

cc_rider Avatar

Location: Bastrop
Gender: Male


Posted: May 5, 2021 - 8:26am

 westslope wrote:


k:  $1,500 compared to buying another vehicle either new or used?  Bargain.  All those items are mid-life replacements that will keep the vehicle safe and ready to go for what?....  Another 150K miles?   If the chassis and motor block are in good condition, you are golden.   $$$ in the bank.  

At least you have a very good idea of what should be done and how.  The kind of understanding that only comes from years of do-it-yourself wrenching. 

Click-and-Clack (The Tappet Brothers) said that all the time on their show. Even dropping in a new mill is nothing compared to a new vehicle. Unibody is about the only thing you just can't replace.
c.


westslope

westslope Avatar

Location: BC sage brush steppe


Posted: May 5, 2021 - 8:18am

 kurtster wrote:

I resemble that.  I will still do my own brakes.  No way in hell I'm paying $200 to $300 per axle for that.

My 2004 Civic is currently getting a front end rebuild.  Lower control arms, ball joints, half shafts and struts.  All things I used to be able to do.  At least I'm saving a lot on labor by getting all of these related parts done at the same time.  $1500, sigh.





k:  $1,500 compared to buying another vehicle either new or used?  Bargain.  All those items are mid-life replacements that will keep the vehicle safe and ready to go for what?....  Another 150K miles?   If the chassis and motor block are in good condition, you are golden.   $$$ in the bank.  

At least you have a very good idea of what should be done and how.  The kind of understanding that only comes from years of do-it-yourself wrenching. 
kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: May 5, 2021 - 6:08am

 GeneP59 wrote:


God I no longer have the will or energy to do car repairs anymore.

I resemble that.  I will still do my own brakes.  No way in hell I'm paying $200 to $300 per axle for that.

My 2004 Civic is currently getting a front end rebuild.  Lower control arms, ball joints, half shafts and struts.  All things I used to be able to do.  At least I'm saving a lot on labor by getting all of these related parts done at the same time.  $1500, sigh.



westslope

westslope Avatar

Location: BC sage brush steppe


Posted: May 3, 2021 - 2:03pm

This is a long shot.  

Does anybody here know anything about Air fuel ratio sensor voltages and fuel trims?
GeneP59

GeneP59 Avatar

Location: On the edge of tomorrow looking back at yesterday.
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 17, 2020 - 7:10am

 Red_Dragon wrote:


 katzendogs wrote:

Wow. They jack the car up and inspect? All they do here is plug into the computer and an external visual.
 

They don't even do that here anymore - no inspection whatsoever. FREEEEEDOM!!!
 
Yes to inspect if there is any play in the suspension, ball joints etc. We don’t do the plug in computer emissions here any more since it was a big scam to sell the machines to the inspection stations while all boarder states didn’t. 
KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 16, 2020 - 8:15pm



 the_jake wrote:


 Red_Dragon wrote:


 katzendogs wrote:

Wow. They jack the car up and inspect? All they do here is plug into the computer and an external visual.
 

They don't even do that here anymore - no inspection whatsoever. FREEEEEDOM!!!
 
If they would just pull over and get off the road all of the countless cars blowing out a James Bond smoke screens behind them, that would accomplish more for the environment than the inspection do

 

Here in Kalifornia ...that wouldn't last for a couple of minutes before you'd get pulled over and arrested.
Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: Nov 16, 2020 - 3:03pm



 the_jake wrote:

If they would just pull over and get off the road all of the countless cars blowing out a James Bond smoke screens behind them, that would accomplish more for the environment than the inspection do

 

Agreed; yet another ordnance that goes unenforced...
the_jake

the_jake Avatar

Location: Beside the Proboscis
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 16, 2020 - 2:04pm



 Red_Dragon wrote:


 katzendogs wrote:

Wow. They jack the car up and inspect? All they do here is plug into the computer and an external visual.
 

They don't even do that here anymore - no inspection whatsoever. FREEEEEDOM!!!
 
If they would just pull over and get off the road all of the countless cars blowing out a James Bond smoke screens behind them, that would accomplish more for the environment than the inspection do

haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 16, 2020 - 12:51pm



 Steve wrote:

Lazy Idiots At Lube Shop Cut Hole In Audi S4's Aero Pan Instead Of Removing It



"I pulled up to the oil change place and stayed in the car. A couple minutes into the change I feel a jarring / ripping sensation through the floor of the car."

 

Hmm, maybe that's why the aeropan is missing on my Passat. I thought it was because the previous owner creamed the front end of the car. My mechanics said, "Don't fuck with it"
cc_rider

cc_rider Avatar

Location: Bastrop
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 16, 2020 - 10:17am



 Bill_Rockoff wrote:
Not surprising, probably 90% of the cars those guys see are the same - Accord/Camry/Altima 4-cylinder, or one of those with the optional V6, or one of the countless minivan / SUV variants using the same engine.  The filter and drain plug are visible from the bottom, oil goes in on top (through the cap that says either "OIL" or "710" on it) and you're done - nothing to it.

Then you pull in there with some European car they've never seen before, and it has all-wheel-drive and they sold maybe a thousand of them the year it was built, and it's like asking a chiropractor to do something for your pet octopus.

My wife had to phone me to come get her from a Jiffy Lube a bunch of years ago, because they were closing soon and they couldn't pull her Subaru Forester out of their service bay.  It started and ran, but when they put it in "Drive" or "Reverse" it wouldn't go anywhere.  If you have read the guy's Audi story or have ever been underneath an automatic-transmission Subaru and looked up, you can guess why.

 
I don't care who you are, that is funny.

Even at a reputable shop, stuff happens. Decided to change my own oil, after a shop did it - not a quickie lube joint, a real shop owned by a former neighbor. Well, the oil plug would NOT come off - tight as a tick. Ending up stripping the head before I was finally able to remove it. At the last oil change, they had re-installed it with an impact wrench - you could see the marks even after I'd butchered it. Fortunately the threads in the pan were ok (lucky!), a new plug and plug gasket solved the problem.

What really burned me was, the owner is very hands-on and has a system for working on cars - he shows the guys exactly how he expects it to be done. Including tightening lug nuts BY HAND, with a (gasp) torque wrench! Even I don't usually do that. So for one of his guys to slam the oil plug on with an impact, when I KNOW they know better, really chapped. Owner was very apologetic and fixed the training issue - we still take our cars there and haven't had another problem.
c.

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