[ ]   [ ]   [ ]                        [ ]      [ ]   [ ]

Today in History - oldviolin - Jun 25, 2021 - 5:55am
 
Breaking News - NoEnzLefttoSplit - Jun 25, 2021 - 5:55am
 
260,000 Posts in one thread? - miamizsun - Jun 25, 2021 - 5:04am
 
Radio Paradise Comments - miamizsun - Jun 25, 2021 - 5:00am
 
Counting with Pictures - Proclivities - Jun 25, 2021 - 4:39am
 
Race in America - sirdroseph - Jun 25, 2021 - 4:01am
 
New Music - R_P - Jun 24, 2021 - 9:25pm
 
Automotive Lust - R_P - Jun 24, 2021 - 4:15pm
 
Skeptix - R_P - Jun 24, 2021 - 3:02pm
 
Graphic designers, ho! - Proclivities - Jun 24, 2021 - 1:04pm
 
What The Hell Buddy? - oldviolin - Jun 24, 2021 - 12:28pm
 
• • • The Once-a-Day • • •  - oldviolin - Jun 24, 2021 - 12:25pm
 
Two questions. That's it. I promise. - oldviolin - Jun 24, 2021 - 12:09pm
 
Poetry Forum - oldviolin - Jun 24, 2021 - 12:03pm
 
Canada - R_P - Jun 24, 2021 - 11:47am
 
In the Know - oldviolin - Jun 24, 2021 - 11:39am
 
The War on Women - sirdroseph - Jun 24, 2021 - 8:57am
 
Play the Blues - Ohmsen - Jun 24, 2021 - 7:22am
 
Environment - black321 - Jun 24, 2021 - 6:53am
 
How to stop autopaly in iOS - sunhawk - Jun 24, 2021 - 5:59am
 
COVID-19 - sirdroseph - Jun 24, 2021 - 4:25am
 
Covers! - oldviolin - Jun 23, 2021 - 8:06pm
 
The Obituary Page - Manbird - Jun 23, 2021 - 4:27pm
 
Mixtape Culture Club - miamizsun - Jun 23, 2021 - 3:09pm
 
Music Videos - sirdroseph - Jun 23, 2021 - 12:02pm
 
RP App for Android - jarro - Jun 23, 2021 - 11:51am
 
Bug Reports & Feature Requests - hughframpton - Jun 23, 2021 - 10:39am
 
Apple Music - GeneP59 - Jun 23, 2021 - 8:58am
 
North Korea - sirdroseph - Jun 23, 2021 - 4:44am
 
Media Bias - sirdroseph - Jun 23, 2021 - 3:25am
 
Apple Music Broken - BillG - Jun 22, 2021 - 7:42pm
 
Last gas price paid? - haresfur - Jun 22, 2021 - 7:32pm
 
Canadian Music - haresfur - Jun 22, 2021 - 7:25pm
 
Great Old Songs You Rarely Hear Anymore - KurtfromLaQuinta - Jun 22, 2021 - 6:07pm
 
Post your favorite 'You Tube' Videos Here - KurtfromLaQuinta - Jun 22, 2021 - 6:02pm
 
Real Life vs. the Internet - miamizsun - Jun 22, 2021 - 3:01pm
 
YouTube: Music-Videos - sirdroseph - Jun 22, 2021 - 7:05am
 
The war on funk is over! - sirdroseph - Jun 22, 2021 - 7:01am
 
What Makes You Laugh? - sirdroseph - Jun 22, 2021 - 6:45am
 
Once upon a time... - sirdroseph - Jun 22, 2021 - 5:21am
 
How would you mow the lawn? - sirdroseph - Jun 22, 2021 - 3:43am
 
Name My Band - oldviolin - Jun 21, 2021 - 9:30pm
 
Live Music - oldviolin - Jun 21, 2021 - 9:26pm
 
Chicago 25 Or 6 To 4 - kurtster - Jun 21, 2021 - 9:18pm
 
2020 Elections - Manbird - Jun 21, 2021 - 7:46pm
 
what the hell, miamizsun? - miamizsun - Jun 21, 2021 - 3:20pm
 
If not RP, what are you listening to right now? - Steely_D - Jun 21, 2021 - 12:11pm
 
Lyrics That Remind You of Someone - oldviolin - Jun 21, 2021 - 8:21am
 
• • • BRING OUT YOUR DEAD • • •  - oldviolin - Jun 21, 2021 - 8:20am
 
Remembering Duane Allman - oldviolin - Jun 21, 2021 - 8:14am
 
Things You Thought Today - oldviolin - Jun 21, 2021 - 8:07am
 
Vinyl Only Spin List - kurtster - Jun 21, 2021 - 7:06am
 
King Crimson - ColdMiser - Jun 21, 2021 - 6:55am
 
Positive Thoughts and Prayer Requests - Coaxial - Jun 20, 2021 - 8:03pm
 
Movie quotes used as life's truisms - KurtfromLaQuinta - Jun 20, 2021 - 5:35pm
 
The Grateful Dead - Ohmsen - Jun 20, 2021 - 2:34pm
 
songs that ROCK! - Ohmsen - Jun 20, 2021 - 1:00pm
 
Mozart Reincarnated - Too Many Notes - Ohmsen - Jun 19, 2021 - 11:39pm
 
Great drummers - JrzyTmata - Jun 19, 2021 - 10:17am
 
Jazz - Proclivities - Jun 19, 2021 - 9:21am
 
RP app for MacBook Pro 16 not compatible? - gtufano - Jun 18, 2021 - 11:29am
 
Music documentaries - R_P - Jun 18, 2021 - 10:37am
 
Republican Party - rgio - Jun 18, 2021 - 5:34am
 
Country Up The Bumpkin - oldviolin - Jun 17, 2021 - 6:52pm
 
Climate Change - Red_Dragon - Jun 17, 2021 - 6:32pm
 
Derplahoma! - Red_Dragon - Jun 17, 2021 - 4:27pm
 
OBAMACARE - Lazy8 - Jun 17, 2021 - 4:12pm
 
Pernicious Pious Proclivities Particularized Prodigiously - Red_Dragon - Jun 17, 2021 - 2:53pm
 
Talk Behind Their Backs Forum - VV - Jun 17, 2021 - 10:13am
 
Cryptic Posts - Leave Them Guessing - oldviolin - Jun 17, 2021 - 9:17am
 
Museum Of Bad Album Covers - yuel - Jun 17, 2021 - 12:25am
 
Putin Owns Trump - rgio - Jun 16, 2021 - 2:31pm
 
Joe Biden - R_P - Jun 16, 2021 - 12:14pm
 
Evolution! - R_P - Jun 16, 2021 - 9:56am
 
Trump Lies™ - kcar - Jun 15, 2021 - 7:02pm
 
Index » Music » Whatever » Surfing! Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next
Post to this Topic
Proclivities

Proclivities Avatar

Location: Paris of the Piedmont
Gender: Male


Posted: May 9, 2021 - 6:51am


NoEnzLefttoSplit

NoEnzLefttoSplit Avatar

Gender: Male


Posted: May 7, 2021 - 7:26am

 islander wrote:


Now we'll just have trophy hunters going out with surfboards to bash great white sharks.... I support this ruling. 



islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: May 7, 2021 - 5:17am

 haresfur wrote:


It's illegal to possess parts of protected species. Discourages people from killing them.


Now we'll just have trophy hunters going out with surfboards to bash great white sharks.... I support this ruling. 
haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: May 6, 2021 - 9:45pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:


So it's illegal to keep a souvenir?




It's illegal to possess parts of protected species. Discourages people from killing them.
KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 6, 2021 - 9:04pm

 haresfur wrote:

So it's illegal to keep a souvenir?


haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: May 4, 2021 - 12:04am



Shark attack survivor wins legal exemption to keep tooth embedded in surfboard



KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Apr 12, 2021 - 1:13pm

Granddaughters first wave.

haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 2, 2021 - 11:04pm



 kurtster wrote:

ah, feet. 

I was not aware of dry suits being used in surfing.  But I guess that my thoughts on dry suits for surfing is still correct, even though this article is on the old side.

Does it make sense to use a drysuit for surfing?

Billabong wetsuit designer John Hubbard responds:

You certainly could use a drysuit for surfing, however, drysuits that are available on the market today are not necessarily designed for surfing. Typical (loose fitting) dry suits are made for either cold-water kyaking or diving.

The disadvantage to a loose fitting drysuit is that they do not react well when moving fast while partially-submerged, as you are while surfing. They have a tendency to drag and hamper your ability to surf.



 
My farmer john has a zipper and gets layered with a thin neo top or better NRS Mystery skin underneath. But frankly, the conditions where it is a better choice than a drysuit for my kind of kayaking are rare, and it is mostly relegated to when I take other people out. Most of the whitewater kayakers I know wear dry tops or semi-dry tops, which aren't exactly svelte when they are surfing standing waves or punching through holes. They also have very good rolls and swimming is rare. But they aren't trying to get out through a break either. Sea kayakers straddle both worlds and even at the height of my skills my surf launching/landing sucked. Horses for courses. 


kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 2, 2021 - 9:06pm

 haresfur wrote:


 haresfur wrote:


I have to wonder why they aren't wearing dry suits. Seems to me you are going to lose a lot more mobility with 6+ mm wetsuits than with a drysuit and fleece underneath. And going home with warm, dry fleece feet is priceless. But what do I know? I'm just a hack kayaker.

 
Feet. I meant to say dry feet. Goretex booties attached to the suit are amazing. A pee zip is nice, too. And be sure to burp the air out or you may end up floating upside down.

 
ah, feet. 

I was not aware of dry suits being used in surfing.  But I guess that my thoughts on dry suits for surfing is still correct, even though this article is on the old side.

Does it make sense to use a drysuit for surfing?

Billabong wetsuit designer John Hubbard responds:

You certainly could use a drysuit for surfing, however, drysuits that are available on the market today are not necessarily designed for surfing. Typical (loose fitting) dry suits are made for either cold-water kyaking or diving.

The disadvantage to a loose fitting drysuit is that they do not react well when moving fast while partially-submerged, as you are while surfing. They have a tendency to drag and hamper your ability to surf.



haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 2, 2021 - 8:48pm



 haresfur wrote:


 westslope wrote:
Surf’s Up. The Temperature Isn’t. - NYT
Growing numbers of surfers are taking to the Great Lakes — even when the weather is well below freezing.

—————————————-

Did I just see/imagine that the CBC acted as the Agenda Setter for the New York Times?  
 
I have to wonder why they aren't wearing dry suits. Seems to me you are going to lose a lot more mobility with 6+ mm wetsuits than with a drysuit and fleece underneath. And going home with warm, dry fleece feet is priceless. But what do I know? I'm just a hack kayaker.

 
Feet. I meant to say dry feet. Goretex booties attached to the suit are amazing. A pee zip is nice, too. And be sure to burp the air out or you may end up floating upside down.

kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 2, 2021 - 8:29pm

 haresfur wrote:

I have to wonder why they aren't wearing dry suits. Seems to me you are going to lose a lot more mobility with 6+ mm wetsuits than with a drysuit and fleece underneath. And going home with warm, dry fleece is priceless. But what do I know? I'm just a hack kayaker.

 
Pussies.  I was surfing when wet suits were first designed for surfing by O'Neill.  It was called a Farmer John because of the way the top was cut.  I had the Short John version in the picture below.  These are later versions than mine.  Then you had only two color choices, black or black.  Didn't do too much but break the wind and keep your torso a little warmer for a bit longer in the cold California winter surf with the water temps in the low to mid 50's.  Still got cold when you wiped out, but having surfed a few winters without one and only a fire on the beach to warm up with, it was a major improvement.

There were dry suits back then but they were for diving and as far as I know still are.  Too expensive and with surfing being an activity where things happen that can cause rips and punctures to things like that, they are impractical and still likely restrictive to movement.  What do you call a dry suit with a hole in it ?  Worthless.

I was stupid enough to borrow a full diving wetsuit one winter in 1969-70 when I went down to Ocean City, NJ and try winter surfing.  Water temp was in the upper 30's.  It was even snowing.   Afterwards spent a couple of hours sitting in my Corvair with the heat running full tilt just trying to stop shaking.   Nope, no fun, never did it again.  Today's wetsuits are a whole different animal with better designs and materials.

Now the spoiled little babies wear them in water temps in the 70's.  Back when you could actually have a real fire on the beach for an after surfing warm up, the most prized skill was being able to light a fire in the wind with damp matches.  Bonus was when an old tire washed up on the beach.  Those burned real hot and would last for an hour or so ...

And $27 in 1967 was a whole shitload of money for a 14 to 15 yo kid.  A new board was $100 to $150.  Do the inflation math for perspective.  Bought mine at the original Frog House by the river jetties at the north end of Newport Beach.

.
haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 2, 2021 - 6:04pm



 westslope wrote:
Surf’s Up. The Temperature Isn’t. - NYT
Growing numbers of surfers are taking to the Great Lakes — even when the weather is well below freezing.

—————————————-

Did I just see/imagine that the CBC acted as the Agenda Setter for the New York Times?  
 
I have to wonder why they aren't wearing dry suits. Seems to me you are going to lose a lot more mobility with 6+ mm wetsuits than with a drysuit and fleece underneath. And going home with warm, dry fleece is priceless. But what do I know? I'm just a hack kayaker.

westslope

westslope Avatar

Location: BC sage brush steppe


Posted: Mar 1, 2021 - 2:56pm

Surf’s Up. The Temperature Isn’t. - NYT
Growing numbers of surfers are taking to the Great Lakes — even when the weather is well below freezing.

—————————————-

Did I just see/imagine that the CBC acted as the Agenda Setter for the New York Times?  
haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 7, 2021 - 7:41am

Riding out the pandemic on Lake Ontario


whatshisname

whatshisname Avatar

Location: West OZ
Gender: Male


Posted: Jan 26, 2021 - 2:34am

Wow, had all but forgotten about those inflatable things, 'LI-LO' s weren't they ?
oldviolin

oldviolin Avatar

Location: esse quam videri
Gender: Male


Posted: Jan 25, 2021 - 9:22pm



 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:


 kurtster wrote:
Just stumbled on this playing around.  Brought back a memory and the significance of it that I never thought of before now.

The vid and the comment I left on the page.  
{#Sunny}

.



Thanks for bringing back this warm childhood memory on a cold winter's night in Cleveland, Ohio.Cheers !
 

Wow!
A famous Kurt!
 
Gnarly 

KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Jan 25, 2021 - 8:53pm



 kurtster wrote:
Just stumbled on this playing around.  Brought back a memory and the significance of it that I never thought of before now.

The vid and the comment I left on the page.  
{#Sunny}

.



Thanks for bringing back this warm childhood memory on a cold winter's night in Cleveland, Ohio.Cheers !
 

Wow!
A famous Kurt!
kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Jan 25, 2021 - 5:04am

Just stumbled on this playing around.  Brought back a memory and the significance of it that I never thought of before now.

The vid and the comment I left on the page.  {#Sunny}
.


As a 15 yo living in Corona del Mar, I was working in the El Paipo factory in Costa Mesa the summer of 1968. One day Steve Bigler, who was a regular at the shop brought George in and we evidently made his first spoon for him. IIRC, he had a short blank shaped by Dale Velzy who was working for Hobie and El Paipo at the time, that we glassed on one side with about 10 layers of 12 oz cloth, much in the same way we made fin sheets to be cut up into individual fins for the Paipo boards. It was a warm jade green resin mix so as not to go off too fast and become brittle. The next day we took to flipping it over and removing the foam down to the glass leaving the nose and side edges with a little divider half way down the middle for knee separation. Sort of a reverse wishbone with the tip inside. The rest of the interior was down to the glass to the back. The edges became side ribs for both edge bite and torsion bars for turning. Smack a fin on the back and that was it ! He left with it headed for Hawaii and I guess the rest is history. Seeing this video brought back this long forgotten memory and helped me to realize the significance of that moment.

Bonus, I got Dale to shape me an 8 foot mini gun that I glassed and finished up myself. Later that summer, one day up at Huntington, I was out on it and in the zone on a medium size fun day. After a while I noticed that David Nuuhiwa was out and watching me ! This was the summer that the Roller Coaster was invented and I seemed to be pulling them off really well and doing some really nice cut backs. No spray from a mini gun pintail but powerful nonetheless. I was really stoked. David being a fellow goofy foot and one of my heroes.

Thanks for bringing back this warm childhood memory on a cold winter's night in Cleveland, Ohio.Cheers !
kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Dec 22, 2020 - 5:23pm

 Proclivities wrote:
Not much info on this photo in terms of their names, but it's apparently from 1937 - in Waikiki.  Those are some long boards.  Here's another photo - maybe from the same day.
 
The people in the second picture are or seem to be all surfing locals, including the women.  The knobs on the knees from paddling are the giveaway.  The guy on the far right even has the typical open sore.  They were fun, not.  Peel off the scab, insert knee in stinging salt water, grimace, then hop on the board putting your weight on the open sore and banzai.  I still have some remnants of my knobs from back in the day.

No pain, no gain, or so they said.



Proclivities

Proclivities Avatar

Location: Paris of the Piedmont
Gender: Male


Posted: Dec 21, 2020 - 5:56am

Not much info on this photo in terms of their names, but it's apparently from 1937 - in Waikiki.  Those are some long boards.  Here's another photo - maybe from the same day.

Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next