Location: Getting comfortably numb in So Tex Gender:
Posted:
Jun 6, 2020 - 8:14am
miamizsun wrote:
that's awesome, dangerous as hell, but awesome
the freaking boat @ 56 seconds is in the red zone for sure
close to edge...
There's you, the time, the logic Or the reasons we don't understand Sad courage claimed the victims Standing still for all to see As armoured movers took Approached to overlook the sea There since the cord, the license Or the reasons we understood will be
Yeah, I see a lot of potential there to, like, take your last ride right as well. You know, just before you hit the rocks and then spend the rest of your life drooling in a home somewhere for the next X amount of years.
As A kid used to surf nearby at Marion Bay, Tasmania. But way back then little was known about the rumoured monsters at Shipsterns . Few knew where it was,fewer would comment on it ,such was the secrecy of top surf breaks then. Can never forget how cold it was when the best winter swells came in. Wore full long john with hooded vest over top . Still froze.
Note the suck back over that rock platform, nasty ,nasty. The place is a breeding ground for White Noahs too.
that's awesome, dangerous as hell, but awesome
the freaking boat @ 56 seconds is in the red zone for sure
close to edge...
There's you, the time, the logic Or the reasons we don't understand Sad courage claimed the victims Standing still for all to see As armoured movers took Approached to overlook the sea There since the cord, the license Or the reasons we understood will be
As A kid used to surf nearby at Marion Bay, Tasmania. But way back then little was known about the rumoured monsters at Shipsterns . Few knew where it was,fewer would comment on it ,such was the secrecy of top surf breaks then. Can never forget how cold it was when the best winter swells came in. Wore full long john with hooded vest over top . Still froze.
Note the suck back over that rock platform, nasty ,nasty. The place is a breeding ground for White Noahs too.
And here's "The Squirrel", she's at the grand old age of 9!
She's gonna go far. Such understanding at such an early age.
I much prefer to watch the women surf in competition just for pure style. They seem to be more into what the wave is rather than what they can get away with in stunts.
That was a nice trip down memory lane. I remember when his photos started showing up in Surfer Magazine and some of those pictures, the bus at Greg Noll's shop and the picture of Miklos Dora III aka Mickey "da cat" Dora at Malibu pushing the guy off the board. IIRC I've seen film of that shot where he catches the guys board under his arm and keeps going. Dora was one of the "bad boys" in surfing back then and a real life character in the real Gidget story. I vaguely remember the Takayama pic above. Hoppy Swarts mentioned in the intro pretty much ran the United States Surfing Association (USSA) before it morphed into the World Surfing Association (WSA). I still have a couple of membership and competition cards signed by him. He lived in San Clemente. He helped me organize the surfing club at my high school and provided gear for club run contests. My Mom would drive me down to his house to pick up and return stuff. He was old back then, but one hell of a nice guy.
Thanks for posting this ! .
I figured you'd probably be familiar with some of those names and locations. They're cool photos.
That was a nice trip down memory lane. I remember when his photos started showing up in Surfer Magazine and some of those pictures, the bus at Greg Noll's shop and the picture of Miklos Dora III aka Mickey "da cat" Dora at Malibu pushing the guy off the board. IIRC I've seen film of that shot where he catches the guys board under his arm and keeps going. Dora was one of the "bad boys" in surfing back then and a real life character in the real Gidget story. I vaguely remember the Takayama pic above. Hoppy Swarts mentioned in the intro pretty much ran the United States Surfing Association (USSA) before it morphed into the World Surfing Association (WSA). I still have a couple of membership and competition cards signed by him. He lived in San Clemente. He helped me organize the surfing club at my high school and provided gear for club run contests. My Mom would drive me down to his house to pick up and return stuff. He was old back then, but one hell of a nice guy.
My wife's 6'0". It's interesting to me how much more common these TOWERING women are since I first met her..ye gods, almost 30 years ago. Used to be that she'd actually get uncomfortable if there was a woman taller than her around. She's since had to adjust.
Homeboy there is only about 5'2" it appears though. Just chesked...He was 5' 3" tall.
My wife's 6'0". It's interesting to me how much more common these TOWERING women are since I first met her..ye gods, almost 30 years ago. Used to be that she'd actually get uncomfortable if there was a woman taller than her around. She's since had to adjust.
Yeah, "towering" - I guess by comparison as well. It seems like back in the 1960s taller women (at least in show business) weren't as common as nowadays. There are just a few I can think of from the back then: Julie Newmar, Juliet Prowse, Suzy Parker, Paula Prentiss... 6'1" is pretty tall though, like Michelle Wie - I think Maria Sharapova is 6'2".
My wife's 6'0". It's interesting to me how much more common these TOWERING women are since I first met her..ye gods, almost 30 years ago. Used to be that she'd actually get uncomfortable if there was a woman taller than her around. She's since had to adjust.
The buddy system ... at the very least someone on the beach ready to go just in case ...
Never did understand the thrill of riding inside of a runaway cement mixer. I mean that wipeouts are part and parcel with riding waves in any way, shape or means, but to ride waves that almost 100% end in an immediate wipeout always seemed to be rather stupid. Having grown up with one of the most notorious of all such waves in the world, The Wedge and arguably the second most famous wave other than Pipeline, in my own back yard, I never went out and gave it a go. The risk vs reward was a non starter for me. A buddy who sat behind me in home room for 3 years was a Wedge animal and was always telling me of his days at The Wedge and the wipeouts. Sorry, better him than me. I wanted a tube ride just like anyone else, but I wanted to get out and kick out rather than go head over tea kettle and get turned every which way but loose.
The break for this story has many of the same attributes as The Wedge with sideways moving waves off the bluff on the left side of the cove as well as a major backwash. It just has deeper water and does not break literally on the beach. I'll defer anymore about The Wedge to the other Kurt who still gets there on a somewhat regular basis.
Many Darwin Award nominees have come from their experiences at The Wedge. This is probably the most famous of all.
Just chesked...He was 5' 3" tall. 