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Index » Music » Whatever » Surfing! Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10  Next
Post to this Topic
black321

black321 Avatar

Location: An earth without maps
Gender: Male


Posted: May 26, 2022 - 12:36pm


KurtfromLaQuinta

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Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 2, 2022 - 8:53pm

 kurtster wrote:

Who knew ? Produced by Mike Nesmith no less ...

One of my two goofy foot idols. David Nuuhiwa was the other.  I used to say that the knobs on my knees were bigger than Corky's.  and they were ...

.




kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: May 2, 2022 - 1:04pm

Who knew ? Produced by Mike Nesmith no less ...

One of my two goofy foot idols. David Nuuhiwa was the other.  I used to say that the knobs on my knees were bigger than Corky's.  and they were ...

.
KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 22, 2022 - 8:15pm

 miamizsun wrote:


how about the top of your noggin?
looks a bit sandblasted too
*giggle*

edit: i had a nasty hip grinder once, looked like i was clawed by a wild animal (body fat really is white)
You know what they say...
Bald in front: Thinker.
Bald in back: Lover
Bald all over: Think they're a lover.

That picture was taken over 12 years ago.
That spot has stayed the same since then.
I've had thin hair there since at least... my wife told me when we were dating in '74.
I've been a lover since... before then.
Some things never change.




miamizsun

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Location: (3283.1 Miles SE of RP)
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 22, 2022 - 5:22am

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:

This Kurt likes this story.
Yep. Even sand can hurt in big waves.
Not to mention sand blasting.








how about the top of your noggin?
looks a bit sandblasted too
*giggle*

edit: i had a nasty hip grinder once, looked like i was clawed by a wild animal (body fat really is white)
whatshisname

whatshisname Avatar

Location: West OZ
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 20, 2022 - 7:22pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:


Yep. Even sand can hurt in big waves.
Not to mention sand blasting.







Then there's those funny little "giddie up " heart beats you can also have on seeing the fin of a big White Pointer gliding by just as you know you are about to be crunched on the bottom.



KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 20, 2022 - 5:45pm

 kurtster wrote:

This Kurt likes this story.
Yep. Even sand can hurt in big waves.
Not to mention sand blasting.






kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 19, 2022 - 11:05pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
 miamizsun wrote:

that's an unbelievably massive wave
i'm not sure the depth at the trough below but that guy is clearly in a hazardous position
i've been slammed and more or less "mandolined" at the bottom of a small wave
being pushed into the sandy bottom with big wave on top of you is scary
now imagine a reef/coral or nasty slag/rocks down there
Just diving under a wave is pretty intense.
A big, 18 footer for me once or twice... maybe 6 times. Many more with 12's -14's.
Can you imagine the weight of that wave.

Can you imagine the pressure.

That's when you become ONE with nature. And your ears will let you know.
 
There was a book written by Willard Bascom that I read as a kid.  Waves and Beaches.  In it among lots of other things that I learned about the fluid dynamics of the ocean was the mention that water pressure in a breaking wave has been measured in tons per square foot.  I read that book over and over again as I got to experience what he was talking about while surfing and just being at the beach.  It is never fun getting caught back in the tube and getting sucked completely over the falls and slamming on the bottom.  That brief moment of weightlessness is brought to a sudden screeching halt with the impact.  The rest is like being caught inside a giant washing machine that has no mercy.  The only lucky thing about sand is it is not coral or rocks.

While everyone was talking about Marine Biology I was all about Marine Geology.  I wanted to study beaches and erosion and other things as an excuse to travel the world and go surfing where ever there were rideable waves.  My girlfriend who is now my wife, and I had it all figured out.  We were going to get a boat ala Michner's Adventures in Paradise and sail around the South Pacific.  I would be the marine geologist and she would be a school teacher.  While it didn't exactly go that way, we still ended up together.

Bascom is credited with coming up with the idea of using neoprene for wetsuits and many other things.  Remember Sealab down at Scripp's in La Jolla ?  Astronaut Scott Carpenter and Ricky Grigg were both Aquanauts onboard. Grigg was my role model when it was all said and done.  I was going to go to OCC, transfer down to UCSD and eventually over to Scripp's.  Pretty lofty goals.  Well, maybe not OCC, but the rest was. {#Mrgreen}  Then there was the war and lot's of other things, but as mentioned above, I still got the girl.

More on Ricky Grigg I just dug up.

Ricky Grigg, 1937-2014
LAST KNOWN INTERVIEW WITH THE SUNSET MASTER AND OCEANOGRAPHY PROFESSOR


KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 19, 2022 - 9:50pm

 miamizsun wrote:

that's an unbelievably massive wave
i'm not sure the depth at the trough below but that guy is clearly in a hazardous position
i've been slammed and more or less "mandolined" at the bottom of a small wave
being pushed into the sandy bottom with big wave on top of you is scary
now imagine a reef/coral or nasty slag/rocks down there

Just diving under a wave is pretty intense.
A big, 18 footer for me once or twice... maybe 6 times. Many more with 12's -14's.
Can you imagine the weight of that wave.
Can you imagine the pressure.
That's when you become ONE with nature. And your ears will let you know.

Coaxial

Coaxial Avatar

Location: Comfortably numb in So Texas
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 19, 2022 - 9:02am

 whatshisname wrote:
 NoEnzLefttoSplit wrote:

wow, is that pose called  "getting some air"?
 
I think this is the Downward Facing Buggered.{#Yes}
miamizsun

miamizsun Avatar

Location: (3283.1 Miles SE of RP)
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 19, 2022 - 7:13am

 NoEnzLefttoSplit wrote:
 
 
that's an unbelievably massive wave
i'm not sure the depth at the trough below but that guy is clearly in a hazardous position
i've been slammed and more or less "mandolined" at the bottom of a small wave
being pushed into the sandy bottom with big wave on top of you is scary
now imagine a reef/coral or nasty slag/rocks down there

whatshisname

whatshisname Avatar

Location: West OZ
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 18, 2022 - 11:52pm

 NoEnzLefttoSplit wrote:



wow, is that pose called  "getting some air"?

KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 18, 2022 - 9:41pm

 NoEnzLefttoSplit wrote:
Picture doesn't show on forum page... but I see it on the reply page.
Great shot!


NoEnzLefttoSplit

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Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 18, 2022 - 12:47pm

KurtfromLaQuinta

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Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 13, 2022 - 7:41pm

 kurtster wrote:
Well, that's cool.


kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 13, 2022 - 1:07pm


CALIFORNIA ENDLESS SUMMER LICENSE PLATE

.
rgio

rgio Avatar

Location: West Jersey
Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 29, 2021 - 5:56am

 miamizsun wrote:

really nice work...

WINDOW from Seth Hughes on Vimeo.


That's good stuff! 

The first thought I had... those whose passions take them out before dawn have access to a private world others will never know they're missing.  The first sunlit hour of the day (especially in the summer at 5am) can be magically peaceful.


miamizsun

miamizsun Avatar

Location: (3283.1 Miles SE of RP)
Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 29, 2021 - 4:37am

really nice work...


WINDOW from Seth Hughes on Vimeo.

whatshisname

whatshisname Avatar

Location: West OZ
Gender: Male


Posted: Jul 29, 2021 - 11:14pm

Ah , some memories here, feels just like yesterday we were doing the same.

Proclivities

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Location: Paris of the Piedmont
Gender: Male


Posted: May 9, 2021 - 6:51am


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