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Index » Music » Whatever » Surfing! Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 5, 6, 7 ... 9, 10, 11  Next
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haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 17, 2020 - 1:54am



 BlueHeronDruid wrote:


 haresfur wrote:
 

Sweet buttery no thank you! Biggest wave I ever surfed (vintage board) was about 5'.

How ya doin?
 

Doing fine. You should see how tiny a wave it takes to thrash me when landing a kayak. And that's when I was at the peak of my kayaking.
BlueHeronDruid

BlueHeronDruid Avatar

Location: Заебани сме луѓе


Posted: Jun 16, 2020 - 11:10pm



 haresfur wrote:
 

Sweet buttery no thank you! Biggest wave I ever surfed (vintage board) was about 5'.

How ya doin?
haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 16, 2020 - 11:06pm

Well, that's a slab of water

WA's Laura Macaulay becomes first woman to surf The Right


Coaxial

Coaxial Avatar

Location: Comfortably numb in So Texas
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 6, 2020 - 8:14am

 miamizsun wrote:


that's awesome, dangerous as hell, but awesome

the freaking boat @ 56 seconds is in the red zone for sure

close to edge...
There's you, the time, the logic
Or the reasons we don't understand
Sad courage claimed the victims
Standing still for all to see
As armoured movers took
Approached to overlook the sea
There since the cord, the license
Or the reasons we understood will be
 
Yeah, I see a lot of potential there to, like, take your last ride right as well. You know, just before you hit the rocks and then spend the rest of your life drooling in a home somewhere for the next X amount of years.{#Stop}
miamizsun

miamizsun Avatar

Location: (3283.1 Miles SE of RP)
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 6, 2020 - 7:15am

 whatshisname wrote:
As A kid used to surf nearby at Marion Bay, Tasmania. But way back then little was known about the rumoured monsters at Shipsterns .
Few knew where it was,fewer would comment on it ,such was the secrecy of top surf breaks then.
Can never forget how cold it was when the best winter swells came in. Wore full long john with hooded vest over top . Still froze.

Note the suck back over that rock platform, nasty ,nasty.
The place is a breeding ground for White Noahs too.

 

that's awesome, dangerous as hell, but awesome

the freaking boat @ 56 seconds is in the red zone for sure

close to edge...
There's you, the time, the logic
Or the reasons we don't understand
Sad courage claimed the victims
Standing still for all to see
As armoured movers took
Approached to overlook the sea
There since the cord, the license
Or the reasons we understood will be
whatshisname

whatshisname Avatar

Location: West OZ
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 6, 2020 - 4:56am

As A kid used to surf nearby at Marion Bay, Tasmania. But way back then little was known about the rumoured monsters at Shipsterns .
Few knew where it was,fewer would comment on it ,such was the secrecy of top surf breaks then.
Can never forget how cold it was when the best winter swells came in. Wore full long john with hooded vest over top . Still froze.

Note the suck back over that rock platform, nasty ,nasty.
The place is a breeding ground for White Noahs too.


kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 6, 2020 - 3:46am

 whatshisname wrote:
And here's "The Squirrel", she's at the grand old age of 9!
 
She's gonna go far.  Such understanding at such an early age. 

I much prefer to watch the women surf in competition just for pure style.  They seem to be more into what the wave is rather than what they can get away with in stunts.
haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 6, 2020 - 12:42am



 whatshisname wrote:
And here's "The Squirrel", she's at the grand old age of 9!

 
wow

whatshisname

whatshisname Avatar

Location: West OZ
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 6, 2020 - 12:19am

And here's "The Squirrel", she's at the grand old age of 9!

Proclivities

Proclivities Avatar

Location: Paris of the Piedmont
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 5, 2020 - 7:16am



 kurtster wrote:

That was a nice trip down memory lane.  I remember when his photos started showing up in Surfer Magazine and some of those pictures, the bus at Greg Noll's shop and the picture of Miklos Dora III aka Mickey "da cat" Dora at Malibu pushing the guy off the board.  IIRC I've seen film of that shot where he catches the guys board under his arm and keeps going.  Dora was one of the "bad boys" in surfing back then and a real life character in the real Gidget story.  I vaguely remember the Takayama pic above.  Hoppy Swarts mentioned in the intro pretty much ran the United States Surfing Association (USSA) before it morphed into the World Surfing Association (WSA).  I still have a couple of membership and competition cards signed by him.  He lived in San Clemente.  He helped me  organize the surfing club at my high school and provided gear for club run contests.  My Mom would drive me down to his house to pick up and return stuff.  He was old back then, but one hell of a nice guy.

Thanks for posting this !
.
{#Cheers}
 
I figured you'd probably be familiar with some of those names and locations.  They're cool photos.

kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 4, 2020 - 2:09pm

 Proclivities wrote:
1965 Hawaiian surfing champion Donald Takayama and towering  (6'1") actress Bettina Brenna (Funny Girl)
Hermosa Beach, CA, Photo: LeRoy Grannis  Nice page of some more of LeRoy Grannis' photography.
 
That was a nice trip down memory lane.  I remember when his photos started showing up in Surfer Magazine and some of those pictures, the bus at Greg Noll's shop and the picture of Miklos Dora III aka Mickey "da cat" Dora at Malibu pushing the guy off the board.  IIRC I've seen film of that shot where he catches the guys board under his arm and keeps going.  Dora was one of the "bad boys" in surfing back then and a real life character in the real Gidget story.  I vaguely remember the Takayama pic above.  Hoppy Swarts mentioned in the intro pretty much ran the United States Surfing Association (USSA) before it morphed into the World Surfing Association (WSA).  I still have a couple of membership and competition cards signed by him.  He lived in San Clemente.  He helped me  organize the surfing club at my high school and provided gear for club run contests.  My Mom would drive me down to his house to pick up and return stuff.  He was old back then, but one hell of a nice guy.

Thanks for posting this !
.
{#Cheers}
ptooey

ptooey Avatar

Location: right behind you. no, over there.
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 4, 2020 - 9:56am



 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

 

Never heard of her but a quick google finds her with Woody Allen in Playboy. Squiflop. 

 
Note to self...




ScottFromWyoming

ScottFromWyoming Avatar

Location: Powell
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 4, 2020 - 9:42am



 Proclivities wrote:
1965 Hawaiian surfing champion Donald Takayama and towering  (6'1") actress Bettina Brenna (Funny Girl)
Hermosa Beach, CA, Photo: LeRoy Grannis  Nice page of some more of LeRoy Grannis' photography.

 

Never heard of her but a quick google finds her with Woody Allen in Playboy. Squiflop. 

Coaxial

Coaxial Avatar

Location: Comfortably numb in So Texas
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 4, 2020 - 9:39am

 ptooey wrote:


 Proclivities wrote:
1965 Hawaiian surfing champion Donald Takayama and towering  (6'1") actress Bettina Brenna (Funny Girl)
Hermosa Beach, CA, Photo: LeRoy Grannis  Nice page of some more of LeRoy Grannis' photography.
 

TOWERING!!

My wife's 6'0". It's interesting to me how much more common these TOWERING women are since I first met her..ye gods, almost 30 years ago. Used to be that she'd actually get uncomfortable if there was a woman taller than her around. She's since had to adjust.
 
Homeboy there is only about 5'2" it appears though. {#Lol} Just chesked...He was 5' 3" tall.
Proclivities

Proclivities Avatar

Location: Paris of the Piedmont
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 4, 2020 - 9:39am



 ptooey wrote:


 Proclivities wrote:
1965 Hawaiian surfing champion Donald Takayama and towering  (6'1") actress Bettina Brenna (Funny Girl)
Hermosa Beach, CA, Photo: LeRoy Grannis  Nice page of some more of LeRoy Grannis' photography.

 

TOWERING!!


My wife's 6'0". It's interesting to me how much more common these TOWERING women are since I first met her..ye gods, almost 30 years ago. Used to be that she'd actually get uncomfortable if there was a woman taller than her around. She's since had to adjust.
 
Yeah, "towering" - I guess by comparison as well.  It seems like  back in the 1960s taller women (at least in show business) weren't as common as nowadays.  There are just a few I can think of from the back then:  Julie Newmar, Juliet Prowse, Suzy Parker, Paula Prentiss...  6'1" is pretty tall though, like Michelle Wie - I think Maria Sharapova is 6'2".

ptooey

ptooey Avatar

Location: right behind you. no, over there.
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 4, 2020 - 8:26am



 Proclivities wrote:
1965 Hawaiian surfing champion Donald Takayama and towering  (6'1") actress Bettina Brenna (Funny Girl)
Hermosa Beach, CA, Photo: LeRoy Grannis  Nice page of some more of LeRoy Grannis' photography.

 

TOWERING!!

My wife's 6'0". It's interesting to me how much more common these TOWERING women are since I first met her..ye gods, almost 30 years ago. Used to be that she'd actually get uncomfortable if there was a woman taller than her around. She's since had to adjust.
miamizsun

miamizsun Avatar

Location: (3283.1 Miles SE of RP)
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 4, 2020 - 7:34am

 Proclivities wrote:
1965 Hawaiian surfing champion Donald Takayama and towering  (6'1") actress Bettina Brenna (Funny Girl)
Hermosa Beach, CA, Photo: LeRoy Grannis  Nice page of some more of LeRoy Grannis' photography.
 

obviously he's got a long board...
Proclivities

Proclivities Avatar

Location: Paris of the Piedmont
Gender: Male


Posted: Jun 4, 2020 - 7:29am

1965 Hawaiian surfing champion Donald Takayama and towering  (6'1") actress Bettina Brenna (Funny Girl)
Hermosa Beach, CA, Photo: LeRoy Grannis  Nice page of some more of LeRoy Grannis' photography.

haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: May 10, 2020 - 10:31pm

California State Parks Closes Manresa State Beach after a Shark Attack Incident

According to WaPo it was surfboard maker Ben Kelly

We just had someone munched at Bells Beach. Just some scrapes so probably not the landlord.
kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Apr 30, 2020 - 2:43pm

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:


 haresfur wrote:
 

Good to have friends.
 
Rule # 1  never go out alone.

Rule # 2  never go out alone.

Rule # 3  never go out alone.

The buddy system ... at the very least someone on the beach ready to go just in case ...

Never did understand the thrill of riding inside of a runaway cement mixer.  I mean that wipeouts are part and parcel with riding waves in any way, shape or means, but to ride waves that almost 100% end in an immediate wipeout always seemed to be rather stupid.  Having grown up with one of the most notorious of all such waves in the world, The Wedge and arguably the second most famous wave other than Pipeline, in my own back yard, I never went out and gave it a go.  The risk vs reward was a non starter for me.  A buddy who sat behind me in home room for 3 years was a Wedge animal and was always telling me of his days at The Wedge and the wipeouts.  Sorry, better him than me.  I wanted a tube ride just like anyone else, but I wanted to get out and kick out rather than go head over tea kettle and get turned every which way but loose.

The break for this story has many of the same attributes as The Wedge with sideways moving waves off the bluff on the left side of the cove as well as a major backwash.  It just has deeper water and does not break literally on the beach.  I'll defer anymore about The Wedge to the other Kurt who still gets there on a somewhat regular basis.

Many Darwin Award nominees have come from their experiences at The Wedge.  This is probably the most famous of all.

.
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