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Index » Radio Paradise/General » General Discussion » Fix My Car Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 142, 143, 144  Next
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ptooey

ptooey Avatar

Location: right behind you. no, over there.
Gender: Male


Posted: May 15, 2019 - 2:22pm



 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
After 15 years of fabbing and tons of work we finally got my son's '41 Dodge Power Wagon started last Saturday...

I did all the wiring on it.
He did almost everything else.


 
That is so cool!

KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 15, 2019 - 1:41pm



 pilgrim wrote:


 

that's badass Kurt!
Nice work, both of you
 
He's going for a exact replica olive drab green with military markings.
My wife and I got him a fiberglass replica 50 cal. machine gun for Christmas a few years ago.
He's already built a bed mount for it.
That will get some attention going down the road.  

pilgrim

pilgrim Avatar

Location: outlier


Posted: May 15, 2019 - 1:21pm



 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
After 15 years of fabbing and tons of work we finally got my son's '41 Dodge Power Wagon started last Saturday...

I did all the wiring on it.
He did almost everything else.


 

that's badass Kurt!
Nice work, both of you
KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 15, 2019 - 12:46pm



 westslope wrote:


 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:


 

So cool!   Curious as always:  what is the fuel mileage?   
 

Right now it's better than any electric car.
It isn't quite roadworthy.

This isn't an economy car... it's a 1941 military Dodge Power Wagon.
It will be way more fun to drive than any other "jellybean car" out on the road today.
And it will get better gas mileage than any boat on the water.
Look at it this way... he recycled it. It was distend for the scrapyard.
I wonder how many Prius's will be on the road in 78 years.

For the complete story to date, check here... https://ramchargercentral.com/...
Don't go there if any of you fear being politically incorrect.  
westslope

westslope Avatar

Location: BC sage brush steppe


Posted: May 15, 2019 - 8:53am



 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
After 15 years of fabbing and tons of work we finally got my son's '41 Dodge Power Wagon started last Saturday...

I did all the wiring on it.
He did almost everything else.


 

So cool!   Curious as always:  what is the fuel mileage?   
KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 14, 2019 - 9:30pm



 kurtster wrote:

Heck, back in the day when I had air cooled Corvairs and my beloved 1973 VW Bus with the 1700 cc engine, I would run Kendall GT 20W50 racing oil.  Sometimes in the summer, I would run straight 50W.  The bus got real hot in the summer ... anyone remember vapor lock ?


 
With my Six Pack this is a common issue.
That's why I run a return line back to the tank... it stops that problem.


KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 14, 2019 - 9:27pm

After 15 years of fabbing and tons of work we finally got my son's '41 Dodge Power Wagon started last Saturday...

I did all the wiring on it.
He did almost everything else.


kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: drifting
Gender: Male


Posted: May 14, 2019 - 9:26pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:

The reason why they recommend the thinner oils these days...  is tighter clearances on things like main and rod bearings.
There's the benefit of less drag in the engine for the better fuel mileage.
I wouldn't fool around with the heavier oil than what is recommend.
That said... bumping the little amount you suggested shouldn't hurt anything.
These engines today are put together way better than the engines from the 20's to the mid 80's.
Racing tech has filtered down to the engines today for more efficiency everywhere.
 
Heck, back in the day when I had air cooled Corvairs and my beloved 1973 VW Bus with the 1700 cc engine, I would run Kendall GT 20W50 racing oil.  Sometimes in the summer, I would run straight 50W.  The bus got real hot in the summer ... anyone remember vapor lock ?


KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 14, 2019 - 9:19pm



 aflanigan wrote:


 cc_rider wrote:

I usually use synthetic oil, but dino oil has additives that make it perform about as well. The viscosity (10W30, 5W20, et al) is important, check the viscosity/temperature chart in the owner's manual.




 
So here's the thing that IMO seems to be going on lately with the specified oil viscosity in cars. There has been a noticeable shift to lower viscosity oils, to try and squeeze another MPG out of the EPA's fuel economy ratings for vehicles. Thus, a vehicle that used to be spec'd to use 10W30 SAE oil is now probably spec'd to use 5W20 or thinner. My wife's 2013 Prius is spec'd to use 0W20.

My recommendation (which I follow, particularly for older cars out of warranty) is to definitely use a thicker oil, particularly in summer. My vehicles all have 5W30.

MORE


 
The reason why they recommend the thinner oils these days...  is tighter clearances on things like main and rod bearings.
There's the benefit of less drag in the engine for the better fuel mileage.
I wouldn't fool around with the heavier oil than what is recommend.
That said... bumping the little amount you suggested shouldn't hurt anything.
These engines today are put together way better than the engines from the 20's to the mid 80's.
Racing tech has filtered down to the engines today for more efficiency everywhere.

kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: drifting
Gender: Male


Posted: May 10, 2019 - 7:25pm

 islander wrote:


 buzz wrote:
wait...what? you're supposed to change that stuff?{#Stupid}
 
ill look into it next time i get the air in my tires changed. {#Motor} 
 
If it leaks enough, you are always putting fresh oil in anyway...
 
That was a feature of English cars in the 50's and 60's.  Oil changes were unnecessary.  Buy oil by the case and change the filter once in awhile.
westslope

westslope Avatar

Location: BC sage brush steppe


Posted: May 10, 2019 - 6:26pm



 ptooey wrote:

....
 

I've paid someone else to change my oil exactly 2 times. The first time, they torqued the drain plug down so tight I had to replace the pan. The second one, they tightened the filter on in a similar manner. Took a neighbor guy and I 3 hours to get the damn thing off. Never again.
 

Wow!   That beats simply overfilling the oil pan.


NoEnzLefttoSplit

NoEnzLefttoSplit Avatar

Gender: Male


Posted: May 10, 2019 - 2:14pm

 miamizsun wrote:


 
you want fix my fence...

that's two doors down. 
miamizsun

miamizsun Avatar

Location: (3261.3 Miles SE of RP)
Gender: Male


Posted: May 10, 2019 - 1:33pm


cc_rider

cc_rider Avatar

Location: Bastrop
Gender: Male


Posted: Apr 19, 2019 - 7:47am



 Red_Dragon wrote:

Meh. I've been taking our cars to the same Valvoline oil change joint for years and have had no issues at all.
The exception that proves the rule. Of course there are good ones, but dang, lots of horror stories. Plus I'm sure they know you there by now, that helps.
c.


islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: Apr 18, 2019 - 7:23pm



 buzz wrote:
wait...what? you're supposed to change that stuff?
{#Stupid}

 
ill look into it next time i get the air in my tires changed.
{#Motor}
 
 
If it leaks enough, you are always putting fresh oil in anyway...

islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: Apr 18, 2019 - 7:22pm



 ptooey wrote:


 Red_Dragon wrote:

Meh. I've been taking our cars to the same Valvoline oil change joint for years and have had no issues at all.
 

I've paid someone else to change my oil exactly 2 times. The first time, they torqued the drain plug down so tight I had to replace the pan. The second one, they tightened the filter on in a similar manner. Took a neighbor guy and I 3 hours to get the damn thing off. Never again.
 
the fuel filters on the previous boat were notoriously hard to remove. 3 hours was the normal budget.




ptooey

ptooey Avatar

Location: right behind you. no, over there.
Gender: Male


Posted: Apr 18, 2019 - 5:24pm



 Red_Dragon wrote:

Meh. I've been taking our cars to the same Valvoline oil change joint for years and have had no issues at all.
 

I've paid someone else to change my oil exactly 2 times. The first time, they torqued the drain plug down so tight I had to replace the pan. The second one, they tightened the filter on in a similar manner. Took a neighbor guy and I 3 hours to get the damn thing off. Never again.
Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: Apr 18, 2019 - 4:47pm

 cc_rider wrote:
The truck has 3500 total miles? After two years?

The first change is 'supposed' to do two things:
- Rinse any residual crud, assembly lube, whatever out of the engine
- Provide a steady revenue stream to the dealer

You're fine. Modern engine oil is far superior to the old stuff, and lasts way longer.
Just have the oil changed, or better yet do it yourself. Whatever you do, don't go to a quickie-lube type place. I had to buy a new drain plug because they put it back on with an impact wrench: destroyed the plug just getting it off!

My preferred oil filter is 'Purolator Pure One'. You don't have to get the $$$ one, their regular/mid grade filters are good.
I usually use synthetic oil, but dino oil has additives that make it perform about as well. The viscosity (10W30, 5W20, et al) is important, check the viscosity/temperature chart in the owner's manual.

The dealer will use GM-approved filter and oil, they're fine, especially if you'll be using them for warranty work.

For WAY more information than you'd ever want to know about engine oil and filters, check out www.bobistheoilguy.com.

Happy Motoring!
c.

 
Meh. I've been taking our cars to the same Valvoline oil change joint for years and have had no issues at all.
buzz

buzz Avatar

Location: up the boohai


Posted: Apr 18, 2019 - 4:14pm

wait...what? you're supposed to change that stuff?{#Stupid}
 
ill look into it next time i get the air in my tires changed. {#Motor} 
cc_rider

cc_rider Avatar

Location: Bastrop
Gender: Male


Posted: Apr 18, 2019 - 4:12pm



 haresfur wrote:


 cc_rider wrote:

You're fine. Modern engine oil is far superior to the old stuff, and lasts way longer.
Just have the oil changed, or better yet do it yourself. Whatever you do, don't go to a quickie-lube type place. I had to buy a new drain plug because they put it back on with an impact wrench: destroyed the plug just getting it off!

 
They put it back in, didn't they? Snowflake.


Yeah yeah yeah, smarty.  I had to jack the dang thing up and use MY impact wrench to get it off. And go buy a new plug. At least they didn't strip the threads in the pan, that would have been $40+ for a Helicoil kit. I love buying tools and all, but those things are spendy.

Impact wrenches are great, but I only use them for removing stuff, not installing stuff. Too easy to mess something up.

On a side note, the McGard locking lug nut 'key' stripped out, so the little squiggly insert would just spin in the socket. Great. So I bought a removal tool that bites into the lug nut, whether it's locking or not.  Chews up the lug nut so it's not really usable anymore, but hey. Glad I was able to do it at home with an impact, 'cause if I'd been on the side of the road somewhere, I'da been walkin'. The moral of the story is, don't count on those 'locking' lug nuts to keep thieves away from your wheels. Locks won't stop 'em, it'll just take them an extra couple minutes.
c.

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