rosedraws wrote: 
In my experience locally, dealerships are the WORST.  And there's no excuse for that motor mount problem.  As a part of repair quality control, you'd think they'd DRIVE the damn thing before relieving you of your cash. 

who wants to fix my brakes for free?? any takers??

    yeah, i know. not funny.

 Alafia wrote: 

  It actually takes far less time to change it if they pull the engine.

 ed wrote: 
I'm not the right person to give a definitive answer, but yes, I'm pretty sure you have to pull the engine to change the timing belt.
Often techs will do the clutch at the same time, even if it's not absolutely necessary, just because you're 'in there' and then you won't have to worry about it later...

We had Honda put in a new timing belt (as advised by all my car-savvy friends) and water pump.  $629.

Hubby drove the car after, and said there was a bad rattle noise.

I drove the car the next day and HOLY SH*T!!! WTF did they do to my beloved car!?!  (I was a little surprised hubby kept driving it...)  It sounds like they left an old belt loose in the engine somewhere and it's flapping around and whapping against everything!  Plus, it sounds like an old wooden Garwood boat when you start it up, and it feels like the engine will drop out when you turn it off and it goes CLUNK! 

 

So, we got it back into Honda first thing today.  They were extremely responsive and effusively apologetic. 

Apparently, one of the engine mounts was not lined up. 

The funny thing is that this is not the first time a car repair place has not remounted the engine properly. Is it really so hard to put the parts back together right? 

Similarly, the car did not need a $250 wheel cylinder replacement... turns out the screw on the bleeder line was loose and it's cap was missing.  $0 repair at Midas.

Oh, Honda Dealer.  I was hoping you would be a repair shop I could trust.

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote: 
Hi-Lift at the ready! 

See ya tomorrow, kids. . . .

And the back window too...

 Xeric wrote:  Here it is...

 oldslabsides wrote: 
THE ENGINE! And trans. And transfer case. Steering...etc.




Actually, I like Chevy brakes the best. There power plants suck. And the Ford 9" rear end is indestructible. I bent my original 8 3/4 Mopar.

 Lazy8 wrote: 
I never have rotors turned anymore.  My experience has always been that once turned, they WILL warp.  I just cough up the extra scratch and have them replaced.

 Lazy8 wrote: 
  Pads won't last as long, but they're cheap and easy to replace.  You can do that yourself, save more than a few bucks, and if you keep the car long enough, what you've saved will pay for the eventual rotor replacement.

 oldslabsides wrote: 
Tailgate! 

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote: 
What's left on that thing that's actually Mopar?

 Xeric wrote: 
Being a 1974 Dodge, my truck came stock with drum brakes all around. It was a routine to open my door and drag my foot to stop with that set up. Simply horrible and dangerous.
I converted to disc 25 years ago in the front. Thankfully I have a Dana 44 front end that allowed me to use Chevy spindles/ backing plates/ (6 bolt- same as Dodge) calipers/ pads with a Ford hub (5 on 5.5 lug pattern- same as my Dodge). It's one of the best things I did to my truck.
About 17 years ago I put disc on the rear. Since I converted to a Ford 9" 28 years ago, it was an fairly easy swap putting on Lincoln Mark 4 disc on the 9" Ford. ( Minor machining and drilling).
Now I have disc on all 4 corners. Much better than those horrible drums.
Next upgrade will be a Hydra Boost system. It utilizes the power steering pump for boost instead of vacuum. I need a little more of that boost to slow down from the 150 mph passes down the freeway.

 ScottFromWyoming wrote: 
Thieves.  Then again, you've probably been to the one in my neighborhood. 

If you're going there for brakes (at least on the GM), come on up to my house instead.  Take us an hour—two if you want the rotors turned down the street at the parts store—and cost ya nothin'.  'Cept maybe some pizza.

(BTW—I've driven probably a two hundred and fifty thousand miles in one '97 and two '03 Chevy/GMC trucks since '99 or so, often or even usually with a trailer in tow, and have never had any brake/rotor issues.  And it ain't like I drive all that slow, neither!)

phineas wrote:
What? 70 mph to 0 on your freeways aren't common?

 manbirdexperiment wrote: 
 
Good grief!
 
Have you no shame!
 
 It's only just November.

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote: 
It's others on the road who are panicking... You'd see them if you only used your rear view...