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Index » Radio Paradise/General » General Discussion » Fix My Car Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 138, 139, 140 ... 142, 143, 144  Next
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Pyro

Pyro Avatar



Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 7:36am

 rosedraws wrote:
We had Honda put in a new timing belt (as advised by all my car-savvy friends) and water pump.  $629.

Hubby drove the car after, and said there was a bad rattle noise.

I drove the car the next day and HOLY SH*T!!! WTF did they do to my beloved car!?!  (I was a little surprised hubby kept driving it...)  It sounds like they left an old belt loose in the engine somewhere and it's flapping around and whapping against everything!  Plus, it sounds like an old wooden Garwood boat when you start it up, and it feels like the engine will drop out when you turn it off and it goes CLUNK! 

{#Arghhh} 

So, we got it back into Honda first thing today.  They were extremely responsive and effusively apologetic. 

Apparently, one of the engine mounts was not lined up. 

The funny thing is that this is not the first time a car repair place has not remounted the engine properly. Is it really so hard to put the parts back together right? 

Similarly, the car did not need a $250 wheel cylinder replacement... turns out the screw on the bleeder line was loose and it's cap was missing.  $0 repair at Midas.

Oh, Honda Dealer.  I was hoping you would be a repair shop I could trust.

 
In my experience locally, dealerships are the WORST.  And there's no excuse for that motor mount problem.  As a part of repair quality control, you'd think they'd DRIVE the damn thing before relieving you of your cash.  {#Arghhh}
lily34

lily34 Avatar

Location: GTFO
Gender: Female


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 7:35am

who wants to fix my brakes for free?? any takers??

{#Lol}  {#Rolleyes}  yeah, i know. not funny.
maryte

maryte Avatar

Location: Blinding You With Library Science!
Gender: Female


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 7:21am

 Alafia wrote:

I'm not the right person to give a definitive answer, but yes, I'm pretty sure you have to pull the
engine to change the timing belt.
Often techs will do the clutch at the same time, even if it's not
absolutely necessary, just because you're 'in there' and then you won't have to worry about it later...


 

  It actually takes far less time to change it if they pull the engine.
Alafia

Alafia Avatar

Location: the dojo
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 7:18am

 ed wrote:

Why would they have a motor mount loose in the first place? Did they pull the engine to change a water pump or a timing belt?
I know these newer cars have everything shoe horned under the hood and you have to disassemble half the car to work on anything but to pull and engine for those repairs is just retarded.

 
I'm not the right person to give a definitive answer, but yes, I'm pretty sure you have to pull the engine to change the timing belt.
Often techs will do the clutch at the same time, even if it's not absolutely necessary, just because you're 'in there' and then you won't have to worry about it later...


rosedraws

rosedraws Avatar

Location: close to the edge
Gender: Female


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 6:58am

We had Honda put in a new timing belt (as advised by all my car-savvy friends) and water pump.  $629.

Hubby drove the car after, and said there was a bad rattle noise.

I drove the car the next day and HOLY SH*T!!! WTF did they do to my beloved car!?!  (I was a little surprised hubby kept driving it...)  It sounds like they left an old belt loose in the engine somewhere and it's flapping around and whapping against everything!  Plus, it sounds like an old wooden Garwood boat when you start it up, and it feels like the engine will drop out when you turn it off and it goes CLUNK! 

{#Arghhh} 

So, we got it back into Honda first thing today.  They were extremely responsive and effusively apologetic. 

Apparently, one of the engine mounts was not lined up. 

The funny thing is that this is not the first time a car repair place has not remounted the engine properly. Is it really so hard to put the parts back together right? 

Similarly, the car did not need a $250 wheel cylinder replacement... turns out the screw on the bleeder line was loose and it's cap was missing.  $0 repair at Midas.

Oh, Honda Dealer.  I was hoping you would be a repair shop I could trust.


Xeric

Xeric Avatar

Location: Montana
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:21pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
And the back window too...


 
Hi-Lift at the ready! 

See ya tomorrow, kids. . . .

KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:18pm

And the back window too...

KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:13pm

 Xeric wrote:

Tailgate!  {#Lol}

  Here it is...


KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:12pm

 oldslabsides wrote:

{#Lol} What's left on that thing that's actually Mopar?
 
THE ENGINE! And trans. And transfer case. Steering...etc.




Actually, I like Chevy brakes the best. There power plants suck. And the Ford 9" rear end is indestructible. I bent my original 8 3/4 Mopar.{#Doh}

Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:11pm

 Lazy8 wrote:

I have. Turning rotors is kind of a racket; back in the day you could talk a mechanic into getting a few hundred thousand more miles out of a rotor by just knocking off the high spots, but nowadays everybody is so scared of getting sued they do it by the book or not at all.

When I replace my own pads I never turn the rotors at all. A few stops and the pads are grooved to match and work fine, but a brake shop that did that might wind up paying for a wreck because the brakes won't stop as well for the first few miles, and if an accident could conceivably theoretically or dishonestly be blamed on the brakes it will be.
 
I never have rotors turned anymore.  My experience has always been that once turned, they WILL warp.  I just cough up the extra scratch and have them replaced.

OlderThanDirt

OlderThanDirt Avatar

Location: In Transit
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:06pm

 Lazy8 wrote:

I have. Turning rotors is kind of a racket; back in the day you could talk a mechanic into getting a few hundred thousand more miles out of a rotor by just knocking off the high spots, but nowadays everybody is so scared of getting sued they do it by the book or not at all.

When I replace my own pads I never turn the rotors at all. A few stops and the pads are grooved to match and work fine, but a brake shop that did that might wind up paying for a wreck because the brakes won't stop as well for the first few miles, and if an accident could conceivably theoretically or dishonestly be blamed on the brakes it will be.
 
{#Yes}  Pads won't last as long, but they're cheap and easy to replace.  You can do that yourself, save more than a few bucks, and if you keep the car long enough, what you've saved will pay for the eventual rotor replacement.

Xeric

Xeric Avatar

Location: Montana
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:01pm

 oldslabsides wrote:

{#Lol} What's left on that thing that's actually Mopar?
 
Tailgate!  {#Lol}
Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 7:59pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:

Being a 1974 Dodge, my truck came stock with drum brakes all around. It was a routine to open my door and drag my foot to stop with that set up. Simply horrible and dangerous.
I converted to disc 25 years ago in the front. Thankfully I have a Dana 44 front end that allowed me to use Chevy spindles/ backing plates/ (6 bolt- same as Dodge) calipers/ pads with a Ford hub (5 on 5.5 lug pattern- same as my Dodge). It's one of the best things I did to my truck.
About 17 years ago I put disc on the rear. Since I converted to a Ford 9" 28 years ago, it was an fairly easy swap putting on Lincoln Mark 4 disc on the 9" Ford. ( Minor machining and drilling).
Now I have disc on all 4 corners. Much better than those horrible drums.
Next upgrade will be a Hydra Boost system. It utilizes the power steering pump for boost instead of vacuum. I need a little more of that boost to slow down from the 150 mph passes down the freeway.{#Shhh}

 
{#Lol} What's left on that thing that's actually Mopar?

KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 7:54pm

 Xeric wrote:

Thieves.  Then again, you've probably been to the one in my neighborhood. 

If you're going there for brakes (at least on the GM), come on up to my house instead.  Take us an hour—two if you want the rotors turned down the street at the parts store—and cost ya nothin'.  'Cept maybe some pizza.

(BTW—I've driven probably a two hundred and fifty thousand miles in one '97 and two '03 Chevy/GMC trucks since '99 or so, often or even usually with a trailer in tow, and have never had any brake/rotor issues.  And it ain't like I drive all that slow, neither!)
 
Being a 1974 Dodge, my truck came stock with drum brakes all around. It was a routine to open my door and drag my foot to stop with that set up. Simply horrible and dangerous.
I converted to disc 25 years ago in the front. Thankfully I have a Dana 44 front end that allowed me to use Chevy spindles/ backing plates/ (6 bolt- same as Dodge) calipers/ pads with a Ford hub (5 on 5.5 lug pattern- same as my Dodge). It's one of the best things I did to my truck.
About 17 years ago I put disc on the rear. Since I converted to a Ford 9" 28 years ago, it was an fairly easy swap putting on Lincoln Mark 4 disc on the 9" Ford. ( Minor machining and drilling).
Now I have disc on all 4 corners. Much better than those horrible drums.
Next upgrade will be a Hydra Boost system. It utilizes the power steering pump for boost instead of vacuum. I need a little more of that boost to slow down from the 150 mph passes down the freeway.{#Shhh}
Xeric

Xeric Avatar

Location: Montana
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 5:05pm

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

Midas: are they all thieves or only the ones I've been to?
 
Thieves.  Then again, you've probably been to the one in my neighborhood. 

If you're going there for brakes (at least on the GM), come on up to my house instead.  Take us an hour—two if you want the rotors turned down the street at the parts store—and cost ya nothin'.  'Cept maybe some pizza.

(BTW—I've driven probably a two hundred and fifty thousand miles in one '97 and two '03 Chevy/GMC trucks since '99 or so, often or even usually with a trailer in tow, and have never had any brake/rotor issues.  And it ain't like I drive all that slow, neither!)

katzendogs

katzendogs Avatar

Location: Pasadena ,Texas
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 4:55pm

phineas wrote:

It's others on the road who are panicking... You'd see them if you only used your rear view...

What? 70 mph to 0 on your freeways aren't common? {#Lol}
hobiejoe

hobiejoe Avatar

Location: Still in the tunnel, looking for the light.
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 4:53pm

 manbirdexperiment wrote:



Merry Christmas!

 
 
Good grief!
 
Have you no shame!
 
 It's only just November.

phineas

phineas Avatar



Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 4:45pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
 Rotors only need turning if they're warped
One thing you need to watch out for with the made in Taiwan stuff that's every where now, they use inferior steel. If you get your rotors wet in the rain, then do panic stops, (or just drive like me), they will have a tendency to warp. I've found that NAPA almost always has better quality parts. They are more expensive, but if you have AAA, a healthy  discount is there. 
 
It's others on the road who are panicking... You'd see them if you only used your rear view...

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