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Index » Radio Paradise/General » General Discussion » Fix My Car Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 138, 139, 140 ... 142, 143, 144  Next
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cc_rider

cc_rider Avatar

Location: Bastrop
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 8:48am

 ed wrote:
That's because they intentionally designed the car so the average person wouldn't be able do even the simplest repairs themselves.
 
To be fair, I've seen plenty of what 'the average person' can do to a car. Many 'average' folks use a toolbox consisting of two screwdrivers, a pair of vise-grips, and a claw hammer. The results ain't pretty. How many times have you seen somebody drive a screwdriver through an oil filter to remove it?

On the flip side: I helped a buddy change the brake pads on his Audi TT. The front caliper bolts were two different head styles for the same diameters: one was hex, the other socket. On the rears, same thing, except they were different sizes than the fronts! Sloppy design, and damned annoying for us shadetree types.

Toyotas are famous for being repairable with just three wrench sizes: 10, 12, 14mm. Yeah there's a few 17s and maybe a 19 on a crank bolt or something, but you can just about pull the engine out with only three wrenches. Working on them, then going back to American iron, or worse German, makes you appreciate good engineering.

c.

p4jkafla

p4jkafla Avatar

Location: New England, USA
Gender: Female


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 8:46am

Just a quick thanks to all who contributed to the conversation about my brakes. I did take it to my mechanic. His service desk called me an hour later, saying that one set of pads had hit the rotors, and that I would need a new one. The thing is, I had removed the wheel the day before to see how bad it was, and there was very very little scoring on the rotor. So when she asked me what I wanted to do, I said just put the pads on. Cost me $90 to get them done.

What a racket...
cc_rider

cc_rider Avatar

Location: Bastrop
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 8:33am

 Pyro wrote:

In my experience locally, dealerships are the WORST.  And there's no excuse for that motor mount problem.  As a part of repair quality control, you'd think they'd DRIVE the damn thing before relieving you of your cash.  {#Arghhh}

 
Absolutely agree. I spend a lot of time at my buddy's place, and he will not give a car back to a customer until he has driven it. There is only one dealership I have ever encountered that I will trust with my cars, otherwise I consider them beneath consideration.

On transverse-mounted engines (virtually all front-drive cars), there is usually a motor mount on the front, i.e. passenger side of the engine, which must be removed to replace the belts. It is an amateur mistake not to put the mount back in after service.

To be fair, mistakes happen to even the best mechanics. HOW they deal with it is what separates the stars from the schmucks. Still, taking the car for a test drive is SOP for any mechanic.

c.

(former member)

(former member) Avatar

Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 8:19am

 ed wrote:
That's because they intentionally designed the car so the average person wouldn't be able do even the simplest repairs themselves.
 
Got a better idea about how to put a power plant into a hood compartment sideways, make it front-wheel drive, cut down weight for fuel economy and still make it easy to work on? 


(former member)

(former member) Avatar

Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 8:12am

 lily34 wrote:
who wants to fix my brakes for free?? any takers??

{#Lol}  {#Rolleyes}  yeah, i know. not funny.
 
I'll do it.  We'll discuss alternative forms of payment at another time.  *smile*

Get your heads out of the gutter people - I wasn't even going there.  ;) 
Lazy8

Lazy8 Avatar

Location: The Gallatin Valley of Montana
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 7:43am

 Alafia wrote:
I'm not the right person to give a definitive answer, but yes, I'm pretty sure you have to pull the engine to change the timing belt.
Often techs will do the clutch at the same time, even if it's not absolutely necessary, just because you're 'in there' and then you won't have to worry about it later...
 
Subaru shops do this pretty routinely. Access is so much easier it more than pays for the time to pull the motor, and by the time you're replacing a timing belt you might as well do a bunch of seals, clutch, gaskets, etc.

maryte

maryte Avatar

Location: Blinding You With Library Science!
Gender: Female


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 7:40am

 ed wrote:
That's because they intentionally designed the car so the average person wouldn't be able do even the simplest repairs themselves.
 

Water pump simple?  Sure.  Timing belt?  Not so much (and yes, I have changed one.  Once.  Just once.).
Pyro

Pyro Avatar



Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 7:36am

 rosedraws wrote:
We had Honda put in a new timing belt (as advised by all my car-savvy friends) and water pump.  $629.

Hubby drove the car after, and said there was a bad rattle noise.

I drove the car the next day and HOLY SH*T!!! WTF did they do to my beloved car!?!  (I was a little surprised hubby kept driving it...)  It sounds like they left an old belt loose in the engine somewhere and it's flapping around and whapping against everything!  Plus, it sounds like an old wooden Garwood boat when you start it up, and it feels like the engine will drop out when you turn it off and it goes CLUNK! 

{#Arghhh} 

So, we got it back into Honda first thing today.  They were extremely responsive and effusively apologetic. 

Apparently, one of the engine mounts was not lined up. 

The funny thing is that this is not the first time a car repair place has not remounted the engine properly. Is it really so hard to put the parts back together right? 

Similarly, the car did not need a $250 wheel cylinder replacement... turns out the screw on the bleeder line was loose and it's cap was missing.  $0 repair at Midas.

Oh, Honda Dealer.  I was hoping you would be a repair shop I could trust.

 
In my experience locally, dealerships are the WORST.  And there's no excuse for that motor mount problem.  As a part of repair quality control, you'd think they'd DRIVE the damn thing before relieving you of your cash.  {#Arghhh}
lily34

lily34 Avatar

Location: GTFO
Gender: Female


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 7:35am

who wants to fix my brakes for free?? any takers??

{#Lol}  {#Rolleyes}  yeah, i know. not funny.
maryte

maryte Avatar

Location: Blinding You With Library Science!
Gender: Female


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 7:21am

 Alafia wrote:

I'm not the right person to give a definitive answer, but yes, I'm pretty sure you have to pull the
engine to change the timing belt.
Often techs will do the clutch at the same time, even if it's not
absolutely necessary, just because you're 'in there' and then you won't have to worry about it later...


 

  It actually takes far less time to change it if they pull the engine.
Alafia

Alafia Avatar

Location: the dojo
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 7:18am

 ed wrote:

Why would they have a motor mount loose in the first place? Did they pull the engine to change a water pump or a timing belt?
I know these newer cars have everything shoe horned under the hood and you have to disassemble half the car to work on anything but to pull and engine for those repairs is just retarded.

 
I'm not the right person to give a definitive answer, but yes, I'm pretty sure you have to pull the engine to change the timing belt.
Often techs will do the clutch at the same time, even if it's not absolutely necessary, just because you're 'in there' and then you won't have to worry about it later...


rosedraws

rosedraws Avatar

Location: close to the edge
Gender: Female


Posted: Nov 12, 2008 - 6:58am

We had Honda put in a new timing belt (as advised by all my car-savvy friends) and water pump.  $629.

Hubby drove the car after, and said there was a bad rattle noise.

I drove the car the next day and HOLY SH*T!!! WTF did they do to my beloved car!?!  (I was a little surprised hubby kept driving it...)  It sounds like they left an old belt loose in the engine somewhere and it's flapping around and whapping against everything!  Plus, it sounds like an old wooden Garwood boat when you start it up, and it feels like the engine will drop out when you turn it off and it goes CLUNK! 

{#Arghhh} 

So, we got it back into Honda first thing today.  They were extremely responsive and effusively apologetic. 

Apparently, one of the engine mounts was not lined up. 

The funny thing is that this is not the first time a car repair place has not remounted the engine properly. Is it really so hard to put the parts back together right? 

Similarly, the car did not need a $250 wheel cylinder replacement... turns out the screw on the bleeder line was loose and it's cap was missing.  $0 repair at Midas.

Oh, Honda Dealer.  I was hoping you would be a repair shop I could trust.


Xeric

Xeric Avatar

Location: Montana
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:21pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
And the back window too...


 
Hi-Lift at the ready! 

See ya tomorrow, kids. . . .

KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:18pm

And the back window too...

KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:13pm

 Xeric wrote:

Tailgate!  {#Lol}

  Here it is...


KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:12pm

 oldslabsides wrote:

{#Lol} What's left on that thing that's actually Mopar?
 
THE ENGINE! And trans. And transfer case. Steering...etc.




Actually, I like Chevy brakes the best. There power plants suck. And the Ford 9" rear end is indestructible. I bent my original 8 3/4 Mopar.{#Doh}

Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: Nov 7, 2008 - 8:11pm

 Lazy8 wrote:

I have. Turning rotors is kind of a racket; back in the day you could talk a mechanic into getting a few hundred thousand more miles out of a rotor by just knocking off the high spots, but nowadays everybody is so scared of getting sued they do it by the book or not at all.

When I replace my own pads I never turn the rotors at all. A few stops and the pads are grooved to match and work fine, but a brake shop that did that might wind up paying for a wreck because the brakes won't stop as well for the first few miles, and if an accident could conceivably theoretically or dishonestly be blamed on the brakes it will be.
 
I never have rotors turned anymore.  My experience has always been that once turned, they WILL warp.  I just cough up the extra scratch and have them replaced.

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