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I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardwareâI think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardwareâI think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
Yes - I'm about to move in to the house on Tuesday - but I may be able to get a pic tonight when I take a load of stuff over there. Thanks! EDIT: The former owner (or who knows, maybe even one before her) had the doors off and stored in a shed before I moved in - I opted to put them back on. So they also might be slightly bowed from being in extreme temps out there (one is for sure). And that could be part of the problem.
We decided to go with new doors/rails and get rid of the warped ones. So...never mind.
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
A lot of those are pretty standard but is it possible to take pics and post?
Yes - I'm about to move in to the house on Tuesday - but I may be able to get a pic tonight when I take a load of stuff over there. Thanks! EDIT: The former owner (or who knows, maybe even one before her) had the doors off and stored in a shed before I moved in - I opted to put them back on. So they also might be slightly bowed from being in extreme temps out there (one is for sure). And that could be part of the problem.
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardwareâI think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
A lot of those are pretty standard but is it possible to take pics and post?
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
I wrote a prose poem in honor of having finally reassembled the family minivan after doing a "top end" overhaul. Apologies to Abraham Lincoln.
Four years and several days ago, our local emissions testing center brought forth upon the family van an emissions test rejection triggered by a misfire, provoked by a failed exhaust valve.
Now, having engaged in a great diagnostic/repair effort, involving dozens of disassembly and assembly steps, and having suffered repeated bouts of projectus interruptus, it has come to pass that the failed exhaust valve has been replaced; that the valve stem seals and hydraulic lash adjusters have been replaced also; and that compression and oil rings have been replaced on the number 5 piston; new TTY head bolts, spark plugs, cylinder head and sundry other gaskets having been replaced, and the disassembled components having been reassembled utilizing all manner of sundry fasteners, bolts, nuts, clips, hose and electrical connectors; whereupon the key has been turned, and the engine doth run with a rythym most soothing and efficient.
I wrote a prose poem in honor of having finally reassembled the family minivan after doing a "top end" overhaul. Apologies to Abraham Lincoln.
Four years and several days ago, our local emissions testing center brought forth upon the family van an emissions test rejection triggered by a misfire, provoked by a failed exhaust valve.
Now, having engaged in a great diagnostic/repair effort, involving dozens of disassembly and assembly steps, and having suffered repeated bouts of projectus interruptus, it has come to pass that the failed exhaust valve has been replaced; that the valve stem seals and hydraulic lash adjusters have been replaced also; and that compression and oil rings have been replaced on the number 5 piston; new TTY head bolts, spark plugs, cylinder head and sundry other gaskets having been replaced, and the disassembled components having been reassembled utilizing all manner of sundry fasteners, bolts, nuts, clips, hose and electrical connectors; whereupon the key has been turned, and the engine doth run with a rythym most soothing and efficient.
Room is on the south end (back) of the house. Trees in the neighbors yard block the worst of the late afternoon sun. The mulberry tree that provided some shade from the other direction was just removed because, nasty mulberry tree. Our pergola provides some shade to the south windows, but not the east ones. The window unit will go in one of the east windows.
In a similar situation (SoCal) we were able to make a large difference in indoor temperature by adding roll-up shades to the eaves of the house. Drop those to stop direct sunlight (not just on the windows, but the whole south end of the house) and we were able to reduce the house temperature by 20F.
Your situation is a bit more challenging with no attic above the ceiling, so don't expect as dramatic a difference, but that was a zero-energy and very low cost improvement.
Which side of the house is the room on? Can you do anything to shade the exterior, especially the windows?
Room is on the south end (back) of the house. Trees in the neighbors yard block the worst of the late afternoon sun. The mulberry tree that provided some shade from the other direction was just removed because, nasty mulberry tree. Our pergola provides some shade to the south windows, but not the east ones. The window unit will go in one of the east windows.
The window unit will drain outside, it's more a matter of if there is enough volume past the coils to get the condensate to drip off instead of just sitting there and re-evaporating back into the room, or sitting there and corroding out the joints on the coil. You're probably just fine, these are all valid considerations, but within the parameters of what you want to do and spend it sounds like you are pretty much there.
Other random thoughts to get bogged down with - insulate the room? what's the roof like? can you make it white to reduce the solar impact? How about just calling it a sauna and declaring it a feature - you're in trumpland after all!
Insulating the room - or the roof - would require removing and replacing all the drywall. I'm not going there.
The room is maybe 50sf; probably a bit less. There is no attic space above it, and it has four windows and an exterior door. The bathroom window (which used to be on the back of the house) opens into the room and we have a small window fan in that for evacuating the humidity from the bathroom after a shower. I tried running this fan during the summer to try and move some cool air into the laundry room, but it didn't seem to help much. Yes, the unit I'm considering is 5k btu.
Which side of the house is the room on? Can you do anything to shade the exterior, especially the windows?
Less than 400cf of air - not including all the stuff in the room taking up space.
The only affordable options I see on line are free-standing units that take up space that we don't have; the room is pretty cramped already. The smallest window unit I can find is 5k btu, probably more than the area needs, but the walls/windows are not terribly energy efficient. Hopefully the unit has provision for draining condensate outside.
The window unit will drain outside, it's more a matter of if there is enough volume past the coils to get the condensate to drip off instead of just sitting there and re-evaporating back into the room, or sitting there and corroding out the joints on the coil. You're probably just fine, these are all valid considerations, but within the parameters of what you want to do and spend it sounds like you are pretty much there.
Other random thoughts to get bogged down with - insulate the room? what's the roof like? can you make it white to reduce the solar impact? How about just calling it a sauna and declaring it a feature - you're in trumpland after all!
Okay, couple more points - sorry, you asked a room full of engineers and tinkerers (Do you want engineers? this is how you get engineers). The fan is probably not nearly enough volume to make a difference in heat, it is also set up to pull from the other room, not push into the room you are trying to evacuate. It's just the wrong tool for the job, you'll have static pressure issues and more.
You don't have to use a window unit. There are some nice portable units in a variety of sizes.
Next, you really do want to do a basic load calculation. You'll need Square/cubic feet of the room and design parameters like outside air and inside air. You don't want a massively oversized unit for A/C - it won't be efficient at low loads, and will have problems with dehumidification and moisture buildup in the unit. This will impact the sensible heat in the room and just generally be a pain.
Less than 400cf of air - not including all the stuff in the room taking up space.
The only affordable options I see on line are free-standing units that take up space that we don't have; the room is pretty cramped already. The smallest window unit I can find is 5k btu, probably more than the area needs, but the walls/windows are not terribly energy efficient. Hopefully the unit has provision for draining condensate outside.
The room is maybe 50sf; probably a bit less. There is no attic space above it, and it has four windows and an exterior door. The bathroom window (which used to be on the back of the house) opens into the room and we have a small window fan in that for evacuating the humidity from the bathroom after a shower. I tried running this fan during the summer to try and move some cool air into the laundry room, but it didn't seem to help much. Yes, the unit I'm considering is 5k btu.
Okay, couple more points - sorry, you asked a room full of engineers and tinkerers (Do you want engineers? this is how you get engineers). The fan is probably not nearly enough volume to make a difference in heat, it is also set up to pull from the other room, not push into the room you are trying to evacuate. It's just the wrong tool for the job, you'll have static pressure issues and more.
You don't have to use a window unit. There are some nice portable units in a variety of sizes.
Next, you really do want to do a basic load calculation. You'll need Square/cubic feet of the room and design parameters like outside air and inside air. You don't want a massively oversized unit for A/C - it won't be efficient at low loads, and will have problems with dehumidification and moisture buildup in the unit. This will impact the sensible heat in the room and just generally be a pain.
Yeah, the splits are $$. Depends a lot if you're planning any remodeling/expansion. Other thing is window units are pretty loud, but may not matter in the laundry room.
Newer window units are quieter than they used to be (though still audible) and I guess it won't matter as much in a laundry room - it should be quieter than the washer and dryer.
Yeah, the splits are $$. Depends a lot if you're planning any remodeling/expansion. Other thing is window units are pretty loud, but may not matter in the laundry room.
Most window units are 5K BTU, that Split is probably 12K or better. It will be more expensive for a split, but they are more efficient and have options like running another air handler in a different zone. You can also run them 'backwards' for heat in the winter.
How many BTU do you need? A rough rule of thumb is 40 BTU per square foot. So if this is a 100 Ft^2 room, then a window unit would probably bee fine. If it's 200 Ft^2, a window unit will struggle to cool it and you'll be running it a full tilt all the time (and your energy bill will reflect the poor sizing decision).
How is the room set up? Is there and attic space above that gets hot? Can you vent that, or provide a powered fan to vent it (where will the make up air come from)?
The room is maybe 50sf; probably a bit less. There is no attic space above it, and it has four windows and an exterior door. The bathroom window (which used to be on the back of the house) opens into the room and we have a small window fan in that for evacuating the humidity from the bathroom after a shower. I tried running this fan during the summer to try and move some cool air into the laundry room, but it didn't seem to help much. Yes, the unit I'm considering is 5k btu.
Most window units are 5K BTU, that Split is probably 12K or better. It will be more expensive for a split, but they are more efficient and have options like running another air handler in a different zone. You can also run them 'backwards' for heat in the winter.
How many BTU do you need? A rough rule of thumb is 40 BTU per square foot. So if this is a 100 Ft^2 room, then a window unit would probably bee fine. If it's 200 Ft^2, a window unit will struggle to cool it and you'll be running it a full tilt all the time (and your energy bill will reflect the poor sizing decision).
How is the room set up? Is there and attic space above that gets hot? Can you vent that, or provide a powered fan to vent it (where will the make up air come from)?
