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Index » Radio Paradise/General » General Discussion » DIY Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 46, 47, 48  Next
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kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: drifting
Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 31, 2016 - 12:14pm

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

Our front load Bosch works fine on Cold. Use Warm or Hot water and it won't stop filling. I just hit appliancepartspros for what seems like the dozenth time, asking what that would be. The water level regulator for our model is $69; Same exact-(looking) thing for another Bosch is $16.

 
I remember reading somewhere that water level regulators are very fussy and either have to be bled out or primed, I forget which, but if installed improperly with air in the line in wrong places causes problems.  Why cold and not hot is a mystery tho.

I would call Bosch directly on that. 
ScottFromWyoming

ScottFromWyoming Avatar

Location: Powell
Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 31, 2016 - 12:05pm

 kurtster wrote:

I've used them.  Good company.

I agree that it is probably the intake solenoid / water flow regulator.  Did one recently on a Whirlpool top loader.  Easy peasy.  Youtube vid was most helpful as well.  About a 15 to 30 minute job once you've disconnected the hoses.

Can't speak about a front loader though.  That might be trickier depending on how much of the case has to be removed. 

 
Our front load Bosch works fine on Cold. Use Warm or Hot water and it won't stop filling. I just hit appliancepartspros for what seems like the dozenth time, asking what that would be. The water level regulator for our model is $69; Same exact-(looking) thing for another Bosch is $16.
kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: drifting
Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 31, 2016 - 10:13am

 islander wrote:
Red_Dragon wrote:
Anyone know anything about washing machines? Ours seems to be leaking slightly into the tub when turned off. Is this something (relatively) easily fixed, or is it time for a new machine?

Probably the solenoid that controls the water flow. Usually an easy fix. Try these guys: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/  I've had really good luck with them.

I just replaced the original door bellows on our front loader after 14 years. It has always leaked a little when you open the door and it finally wore through a spot. After replacing it with the new part it doesn't leak anymore. Looks like a factory installation defect that I thought was a quirk of the design.

 
I've used them.  Good company.

I agree that it is probably the intake solenoid / water flow regulator.  Did one recently on a Whirlpool top loader.  Easy peasy.  Youtube vid was most helpful as well.  About a 15 to 30 minute job once you've disconnected the hoses.

Can't speak about a front loader though.  That might be trickier depending on how much of the case has to be removed. 
aflanigan

aflanigan Avatar

Location: At Sea
Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 31, 2016 - 8:04am

 kcar wrote:

Adventures semi-professional dentistry: "This should work...Nurse, does this look right to you?...oh I shouldn't have skimmed that paragraph..." 

Glad you and the caps survived...{#Cheesygrin}

 
Nurse!?!? He was flying solo. No assistant. His office was attached to his home.
kcar

kcar Avatar



Posted: Oct 29, 2016 - 12:11pm

 aflanigan wrote:
I bought myself a UV curable resin repair kit (Bondic brand) last year. So far, it's impressive.

The first repair was pretty mundane, not a high stress/critical joint (broken plastic compartment door on refrigerator). The repair was quick and easy, and withstands attempts to bend it. I should do a test weld on scrap and see if it is stronger than the original material.

More recently had a compression collar that split open on a garden hose wand (kind of like the one pictured below) resulting in a failed O ring joint.

I could have just glued the assembly together without worrying about being able to subsequently unscrew it, but I decided to use PTFE thread seal tape as a release agent to keep the "weld" from sticking to the mating joints on the handle. I wrapped the tape around the male threads that the collar screws onto, and then carefully threaded the collar loosely into place. Squirted the resin into the gap, gently clamped it, and then hit it with the UV light pen.

It did great, I was able to tighten the collar sufficiently to compress the O-ring and it is holding so far.

Oddly enough, when I was a kid this same technique first came out for teeth repair. My parents couldn't afford a porcelain/gold crown, so our town dentist tried this stuff on my two broken front teeth. He was layering the stuff on while peering at the instruction manual, and then shining a UV light gun on it. His tooth "capping" job lasted for about 25 years. 

 
Adventures semi-professional dentistry: "This should work...Nurse, does this look right to you?...oh I shouldn't have skimmed that paragraph..." 

Glad you and the caps survived...{#Cheesygrin}


islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 29, 2016 - 11:50am

 Red_Dragon wrote:
Anyone know anything about washing machines? Ours seems to be leaking slightly into the tub when turned off. Is this something (relatively) easily fixed, or is it time for a new machine?

 
Probably the solenoid that controls the water flow. Usually an easy fix. Try these guys: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/  I've had really good luck with them.

I just replaced the original door bellows on our front loader after 14 years. It has always leaked a little when you open the door and it finally wore through a spot. After replacing it with the new part it doesn't leak anymore. Looks like a factory installation defect that I thought was a quirk of the design.
Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: Oct 29, 2016 - 11:46am

Anyone know anything about washing machines? Ours seems to be leaking slightly into the tub when turned off. Is this something (relatively) easily fixed, or is it time for a new machine?
aflanigan

aflanigan Avatar

Location: At Sea
Gender: Male


Posted: Apr 18, 2016 - 1:28pm

I bought myself a UV curable resin repair kit (Bondic brand) last year. So far, it's impressive.

The first repair was pretty mundane, not a high stress/critical joint (broken plastic compartment door on refrigerator). The repair was quick and easy, and withstands attempts to bend it. I should do a test weld on scrap and see if it is stronger than the original material.

More recently had a compression collar that split open on a garden hose wand (kind of like the one pictured below) resulting in a failed O ring joint.

I could have just glued the assembly together without worrying about being able to subsequently unscrew it, but I decided to use PTFE thread seal tape as a release agent to keep the "weld" from sticking to the mating joints on the handle. I wrapped the tape around the male threads that the collar screws onto, and then carefully threaded the collar loosely into place. Squirted the resin into the gap, gently clamped it, and then hit it with the UV light pen.

It did great, I was able to tighten the collar sufficiently to compress the O-ring and it is holding so far.

Oddly enough, when I was a kid this same technique first came out for teeth repair. My parents couldn't afford a porcelain/gold crown, so our town dentist tried this stuff on my two broken front teeth. He was layering the stuff on while peering at the instruction manual, and then shining a UV light gun on it. His tooth "capping" job lasted for about 25 years. 

 


aflanigan

aflanigan Avatar

Location: At Sea
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 6, 2016 - 10:17am

 islander wrote:

http://www.radioparadise.com/rp_2.php#name=Forums&file=showtopic&p=2817527

This is year 7 with it.  I can't find my energy use spreadsheet, but I think I had my ROI on the extra cost somewhere in year 2 or 3. It has probably paid for itself by now.  I know the gas conversion on the boiler has. 

 
We were lucky to find a house with gas hydronic boiler (though the original has also been replaced). So much nicer than forced hot air furnace.
ScottFromWyoming

ScottFromWyoming Avatar

Location: Powell
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 6, 2016 - 9:44am

 islander wrote:


To the question on your other post, how far away is your garage?  Much like feeding it from your house with a single tank, it will take a bit to get hot water out there. You might be better served just running one cold line out there and using a smaller 20 gallon tank for that space. If your usage is intermittent enough, you can just turn it off in between. Not sure if it would be better to drain/pickle it or not (probably not).

 
The garage has a small apartment on the back; it's always had its own hot water heater out in the garage. The break last fall happened around the tank but right now I don't know if it's the tank or a line or what. Historically, the garage was heated so freezing wasn't an issue, but I opted to not do that. Ergo, stuff now freezes. I really need to rebuild the garage side completely including new electrical service and frame in the plumbing so it can be protected. Etc. etc. it's always something.

So yeah, that's where I was saying I need to decide how to deal with it. I think a 6 gallon electric unit that sits under the kitchen sink out there makes sense. We can just switch it on when you come visit. I'll have to rearrange the plumbing but yay PEX.
islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 6, 2016 - 9:29am

 aflanigan wrote:

Thanks for the tip. Good to know when ours gets ready to be replaced. We installed the current gas tank heater about 15 years ago, I believe.

 
http://www.radioparadise.com/rp_2.php#name=Forums&file=showtopic&p=2817527

This is year 7 with it.  I can't find my energy use spreadsheet, but I think I had my ROI on the extra cost somewhere in year 2 or 3. It has probably paid for itself by now.  I know the gas conversion on the boiler has. 


aflanigan

aflanigan Avatar

Location: At Sea
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 6, 2016 - 9:24am

 islander wrote:

We put a tankless in several years ago (7?... 8?... it was a while). I did a lot of math on it and figured even with longer showers I'd be saving $s. I was a bit worried about longevity of the unit, but it's been rock solid.  Get the gas units unless you have an unusually large electrical service and cheap electricity. My house has the gas meter of a small restaurant, but it's rarely on.  Showers will be longer, so owners of teenagers should be wary. I highly recommend it. 

 
Thanks for the tip. Good to know when ours gets ready to be replaced. We installed the current gas tank heater about 15 years ago, I believe.
islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 6, 2016 - 9:20am

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

I was reading something that says the temp. of those showers will fluctuate as the thing cycles on and off. True? 

 
No.  I went back and looked at the history in this thread and the 'show us your new ______" thread. It was december 2009 when I put mine in.  It has been fantastic. My energy bills are lower and my showers are longer. The only fluctuation you get is from the pressure shift when some one opens another tap somewhere. Our tankless can supply a shower and fill the clothes washer simultaneously (you do hear it kick up, but the temp doesn't deviate).  It doesn't really cycle when flowing though. It does load up and down depending on flow, but it never shuts off until you turn off  the tap. 

I keep ours set at 116 degree output. Some people recommend setting it for the temp you want in the shower and just use the hot. But there are times I want water hotter than my shower. 

There is a slight lag on first start. A lot of people complain about this, but it's really just seconds with a gas unit. You still have to get the cold water out of the pipes and that takes the most time, but that's the same with a tank.  You can't really use a circulator with a tankless.  

To the question on your other post, how far away is your garage?  Much like feeding it from your house with a single tank, it will take a bit to get hot water out there. You might be better served just running one cold line out there and using a smaller 20 gallon tank for that space. If your usage is intermittent enough, you can just turn it off in between. Not sure if it would be better to drain/pickle it or not (probably not).
ScottFromWyoming

ScottFromWyoming Avatar

Location: Powell
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 6, 2016 - 5:35am

 islander wrote:
Showers will be longer, 
 
I was reading something that says the temp. of those showers will fluctuate as the thing cycles on and off. True? 
ScottFromWyoming

ScottFromWyoming Avatar

Location: Powell
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 6, 2016 - 5:33am

 islander wrote:

PEX will take a light freeze btw. 

 
I'm not actually sure what the issue was out there. It wasn't freezing at the time and we had the heat tape on it anyway. But it was dark and October and spraying water so I just shut off the main and said I'll sort it out come spring. When it's warmer we'll turn the water back on and see what gave, whether it was a pipe or the heater itself.

Absolutely using PEX this time; the real question, since this is a lightly-used spare room, is should we just put a little tankless system inside the (heated) apartment itself and only power it up when someone's going to be out there. The plumbing to the shower, sink, toilet is all on the unheated garage side of the wall, so we'll still need to deal with that, but it might be a better solution.
 
Inside the house, I think we want the floor space so badly that that's going to mean tankless no matter what. 
kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: drifting
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 6, 2016 - 12:05am

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

I'm not licensed in your state.
 
A friend just put tankless in her house. I'm curious to know how she likes it. I think they may be overpromised in a lot of ways. 

 
Did some looking into it ... just in case.  Seems to be ok.  

The biggest problem I saw was water quality and scaling deposits clogging it up.  A water softener would handle that, but we don't have any place to put one.

If you have even moderately hard water or well water, its a no go.  Needs good water pressure, too. 
islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 5, 2016 - 10:25pm

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

You mean a 30-gallon conventional water heater is $2000 installed? oof.
 
I have to put a new heater or something in our garage for the little apartment out there.  I think I'll just use a 6-gallon electric so it's simple to switch off during the long periods where we don't use it. I really should frame in all the plumbing so it doesn't freeze but I probably won't. Just have to remember about the freezing thing come winter... which I do remember about 90% of the time

 
PEX will take a light freeze btw. 
islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 5, 2016 - 10:23pm

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

I'm not licensed in your state.
 
A friend just put tankless in her house. I'm curious to know how she likes it. I think they may be overpromised in a lot of ways. 

 
We put a tankless in several years ago (7?... 8?... it was a while). I did a lot of math on it and figured even with longer showers I'd be saving $s. I was a bit worried about longevity of the unit, but it's been rock solid.  Get the gas units unless you have an unusually large electrical service and cheap electricity. My house has the gas meter of a small restaurant, but it's rarely on.  Showers will be longer, so owners of teenagers should be wary. I highly recommend it. 
ScottFromWyoming

ScottFromWyoming Avatar

Location: Powell
Gender: Male


Posted: Mar 5, 2016 - 8:58pm

 Red_Dragon wrote:

We'll put you up.

 
I'm not licensed in your state.
 
A friend just put tankless in her house. I'm curious to know how she likes it. I think they may be overpromised in a lot of ways. 
Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: Mar 5, 2016 - 8:37pm

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

Okay, whew. I was going to come down there and only charge you $1500.

 
We'll put you up.
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