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Index » Radio Paradise/General » General Discussion » DIY Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, ... 46, 47, 48  Next
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Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: May 31, 2017 - 11:00am

 islander wrote:

Okay, couple more points - sorry, you asked a room full of engineers and tinkerers (Do you want engineers? this is how you get engineers).  The fan is probably not nearly enough volume to make a difference in heat, it is also set up to pull from the other room, not push into the room you are trying to evacuate. It's just the wrong tool for the job, you'll have static pressure issues and more. 

You don't have to use a window unit. There are some nice portable units in a variety of sizes.  

Next, you really do want to do a basic load calculation. You'll need Square/cubic feet of the room and design parameters like outside air and inside air. You don't want a massively oversized unit for A/C - it won't be efficient at low loads, and will have problems with dehumidification and moisture buildup in the unit. This will impact the sensible heat in the room and just generally be a pain. 

 
Less than 400cf of air - not including all the stuff in the room taking up space.

The only affordable options I see on line are free-standing units that take up space that we don't have; the room is pretty cramped already. The smallest window unit I can find is 5k btu, probably more than the area needs, but the walls/windows are not terribly energy efficient. Hopefully the unit has provision for draining condensate outside.
islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: May 31, 2017 - 10:46am

 Red_Dragon wrote:

The room is maybe 50sf; probably a bit less. There is no attic space above it, and it has four windows and an exterior door. The bathroom window (which used to be on the back of the house) opens into the room and we have a small window fan in that for evacuating the humidity from the bathroom after a shower. I tried running this fan during the summer to try and move some cool air into the laundry room, but it didn't seem to help much. Yes, the unit I'm considering is 5k btu.

 
Okay, couple more points - sorry, you asked a room full of engineers and tinkerers (Do you want engineers? this is how you get engineers).  The fan is probably not nearly enough volume to make a difference in heat, it is also set up to pull from the other room, not push into the room you are trying to evacuate. It's just the wrong tool for the job, you'll have static pressure issues and more. 

You don't have to use a window unit. There are some nice portable units in a variety of sizes.  

Next, you really do want to do a basic load calculation. You'll need Square/cubic feet of the room and design parameters like outside air and inside air. You don't want a massively oversized unit for A/C - it won't be efficient at low loads, and will have problems with dehumidification and moisture buildup in the unit. This will impact the sensible heat in the room and just generally be a pain. 
Proclivities

Proclivities Avatar

Location: Paris of the Piedmont
Gender: Male


Posted: May 31, 2017 - 9:33am

 cc_rider wrote:

Yeah, the splits are $$. Depends a lot if you're planning any remodeling/expansion. Other thing is window units are pretty loud, but may not matter in the laundry room.

 
Newer window units are quieter than they used to be (though still audible) and I guess it won't matter as much in a laundry room - it should be quieter than the washer and dryer.


cc_rider

cc_rider Avatar

Location: Bastrop
Gender: Male


Posted: May 31, 2017 - 8:58am

 Red_Dragon wrote:

Window unit a/c - $135

Split-system heat pump - $1,200
{#Think}

 
Yeah, the splits are $$. Depends a lot if you're planning any remodeling/expansion. Other thing is window units are pretty loud, but may not matter in the laundry room.
Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: May 31, 2017 - 8:30am

 islander wrote:

Most window units are 5K BTU, that Split is probably 12K or better. It will be more expensive for a split, but they are more efficient and have options like running another air handler in a different zone. You can also run them 'backwards' for heat in the winter.

How many BTU do you need?  A rough rule of thumb is 40 BTU per square foot. So if this is a 100 Ft^2 room, then a window unit would probably bee fine. If it's 200 Ft^2, a window unit will struggle to cool it and you'll be running it a full tilt all the time (and your energy bill will reflect the poor sizing decision).  

How is the room set up? Is there and attic space above that gets hot? Can you vent that, or provide a powered fan to vent it (where will the make up air come from)?

 
The room is maybe 50sf; probably a bit less. There is no attic space above it, and it has four windows and an exterior door. The bathroom window (which used to be on the back of the house) opens into the room and we have a small window fan in that for evacuating the humidity from the bathroom after a shower. I tried running this fan during the summer to try and move some cool air into the laundry room, but it didn't seem to help much. Yes, the unit I'm considering is 5k btu.
islander

islander Avatar

Location: Seattle
Gender: Male


Posted: May 31, 2017 - 8:19am

 Red_Dragon wrote:

Window unit a/c - $135

Split-system heat pump - $1,200
{#Think}

 
Most window units are 5K BTU, that Split is probably 12K or better. It will be more expensive for a split, but they are more efficient and have options like running another air handler in a different zone. You can also run them 'backwards' for heat in the winter.

How many BTU do you need?  A rough rule of thumb is 40 BTU per square foot. So if this is a 100 Ft^2 room, then a window unit would probably bee fine. If it's 200 Ft^2, a window unit will struggle to cool it and you'll be running it a full tilt all the time (and your energy bill will reflect the poor sizing decision).  

How is the room set up? Is there and attic space above that gets hot? Can you vent that, or provide a powered fan to vent it (where will the make up air come from)?
Proclivities

Proclivities Avatar

Location: Paris of the Piedmont
Gender: Male


Posted: May 31, 2017 - 6:30am

 Red_Dragon wrote:

Window unit a/c - $135

Split-system heat pump - $1,200
{#Think}

 
That seems like an easy enough decision, though the heat pump does come with a free allen wrench.
{#Bounce}


Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: May 30, 2017 - 5:23pm

 cc_rider wrote:

Funny, we have the same problem with our old (1922) house.

If the laundry room is pretty small, a window unit would be fine, but they are not very efficient compared with  larger units. Better would be a 'ductless mini-split', a self-contained unit similar to a window unit, but permanently installed (not in a window). They are pretty slick, designed and built much better than window units. They cost more up front, but are more efficient than window units.  I will probably install one in our new house, in the garage/workshop.
c.


 
Window unit a/c - $135

Split-system heat pump - $1,200
{#Think}
cc_rider

cc_rider Avatar

Location: Bastrop
Gender: Male


Posted: May 30, 2017 - 11:07am

 Red_Dragon wrote:
Our home was built in 1927. It still has the original craftsman-style, single-pane windows and no insulation in the walls. I've insulated about 1/2 to 2/3 of the attic with R-30, and that has helped some. At some point someone added a laundry room onto the back of the house. There is no HVAC to this room, the rest of the house is heated and cooled by a "package unit" with duct work in the crawlspace. In summer, the laundry room gets damned uncomfortably warm. I'm considering a tiny window unit a/c back there. My theory is that the laundry room hot spot probably makes it more difficult for the central air to keep the whole house comfortable and the window unit will do enough good to make it worth the electricity it will consume.

Thoughts?
 
Funny, we have the same problem with our old (1922) house.

If the laundry room is pretty small, a window unit would be fine, but they are not very efficient compared with  larger units. Better would be a 'ductless mini-split', a self-contained unit similar to a window unit, but permanently installed (not in a window). They are pretty slick, designed and built much better than window units. They cost more up front, but are more efficient than window units.  I will probably install one in our new house, in the garage/workshop.
c.

Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: May 30, 2017 - 8:09am

 aflanigan wrote:

Where is the thermostat for the space pac unit located?

What's the temperature difference between the laundry room and the room(s) it abuts on a typical hot day, and how much if any insulation is there in the wall separating them?

You may need to run a new circuit to the ad hoc laundry room to power the window unit. 

 
Thermostat is pretty much in the center of the house in the dining room.

In the hottest part of the summer, I'd imagine the temperature difference to be 15-20 degrees.

Yup,, probably will.
aflanigan

aflanigan Avatar

Location: At Sea
Gender: Male


Posted: May 30, 2017 - 7:46am

 Red_Dragon wrote:
Our home was built in 1927. It still has the original craftsman-style, single-pane windows and no insulation in the walls. I've insulated about 1/2 to 2/3 of the attic with R-30, and that has helped some. At some point someone added a laundry room onto the back of the house. There is no HVAC to this room, the rest of the house is heated and cooled by a "package unit" with duct work in the crawlspace. In summer, the laundry room gets damned uncomfortably warm. I'm considering a tiny window unit a/c back there. My theory is that the laundry room hot spot probably makes it more difficult for the central air to keep the whole house comfortable and the window unit will do enough good to make it worth the electricity it will consume.

Thoughts?

 
Where is the thermostat for the space pac unit located?

What's the temperature difference between the laundry room and the room(s) it abuts on a typical hot day, and how much if any insulation is there in the wall separating them?

You may need to run a new circuit to the ad hoc laundry room to power the window unit. 


Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: May 29, 2017 - 12:23pm

Our home was built in 1927. It still has the original craftsman-style, single-pane windows and no insulation in the walls. I've insulated about 1/2 to 2/3 of the attic with R-30, and that has helped some. At some point someone added a laundry room onto the back of the house. There is no HVAC to this room, the rest of the house is heated and cooled by a "package unit" with duct work in the crawlspace. In summer, the laundry room gets damned uncomfortably warm. I'm considering a tiny window unit a/c back there. My theory is that the laundry room hot spot probably makes it more difficult for the central air to keep the whole house comfortable and the window unit will do enough good to make it worth the electricity it will consume.

Thoughts?


Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: Nov 16, 2016 - 3:40pm

 NoEnzLefttoSplit wrote:

I've been through a divorce like that.

 
Mine might have been if a tornado hadn't blown the house away. {#Lol}
NoEnzLefttoSplit

NoEnzLefttoSplit Avatar

Gender: Male


Posted: Nov 16, 2016 - 2:39pm

 Red_Dragon wrote:


 
I've been through a divorce like that.
Red_Dragon

Red_Dragon Avatar



Posted: Nov 16, 2016 - 2:37pm


haresfur

haresfur Avatar

Location: The Golden Triangle
Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 31, 2016 - 1:21pm

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

Our front load Bosch works fine on Cold. Use Warm or Hot water and it won't stop filling. I just hit appliancepartspros for what seems like the dozenth time, asking what that would be. The water level regulator for our model is $69; Same exact-(looking) thing for another Bosch is $16.

 
Our washer only connects to cold water and heats its own. Not a bad idea - 50% lower chance of flooding the house. 
NoEnzLefttoSplit

NoEnzLefttoSplit Avatar

Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 31, 2016 - 1:04pm

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

Our front load Bosch works fine on Cold. Use Warm or Hot water and it won't stop filling. I just hit appliancepartspros for what seems like the dozenth time, asking what that would be. The water level regulator for our model is $69; Same exact-(looking) thing for another Bosch is $16.

 
I can ask here if you like. What is the serial number and model?  
kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: drifting
Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 31, 2016 - 1:01pm

 ScottFromWyoming wrote:

I kind of assume calling the company is a prime way to get a BS answer like "Bring your appliance to your nearby Bosch repair facility in Kenosha, WI."
 
This washer's been working fine for a few years but last year/18 months ago I did replace the brushes in the motor and some belts. I wonder if tipping it etc. could cause it to be fouled up now. 

 
That could do it with the water level thing causing the what ever is normal in the tube to change by letting the captured water to escape when tipped..  Its a lot like a mercury filled barometer, got to be filled 'just so'.  But again the hot vs cold doesn't make any sense.  Maybe a loose wire or one that fell off with vibrations somewhere on one of the sensors.
ScottFromWyoming

ScottFromWyoming Avatar

Location: Powell
Gender: Male


Posted: Oct 31, 2016 - 12:36pm

 kurtster wrote:

I remember reading somewhere that water level regulators are very fussy and either have to be bled out or primed, I forget which, but if installed improperly with air in the line in wrong places causes problems.  Why cold and not hot is a mystery tho.

I would call Bosch directly on that. 

 
I kind of assume calling the company is a prime way to get a BS answer like "Bring your appliance to your nearby Bosch repair facility in Kenosha, WI."
 
This washer's been working fine for a few years but last year/18 months ago I did replace the brushes in the motor and some belts. I wonder if tipping it etc. could cause it to be fouled up now. 
kcar

kcar Avatar



Posted: Oct 31, 2016 - 12:18pm

 aflanigan wrote:

Nurse!?!? He was flying solo. No assistant. His office was attached to his home.

 
So he was a step up from...this guy


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