A Ute?

Queenslander immediately regrets braking for wildlife

 kurtster wrote: 
Carl should just skip Daytona next year. He seems to always have a bad time of it there. 

Should be an interesting season for all those Jimmie haters.  

 GeneP59 wrote: 
Yep, she got pimped coming off pit row that one time, too.

She's got some grit.  A top 10 is good anytime.  She's got a car finally, needs to learn a few more things and then watch out as her confidence builds.  So many times in the past running in the back she got taken out as collateral damage in wrecks.  Running up front helped her avoid a lot of stuff today.

Jr's getting better, too.  Edwards is my main man.  Not so good a day week for him.

 kurtster wrote: 
Yup Hendricks is my team. Danica was 3rd with 1/2 lap to go and got freight trained. 

Johnson wins.

Patrick is very respectable coming in 8th.

Great race.

 Lazy8 wrote: 
puts a little too much faith in the guy running the post-hole digger that day.

ScottFromWyoming wrote:
I had a boss who liked to do that. He'd buy a beater and see if he could get the guardrail to compress enough that a rivet would stick up and catch an edge in the car's sheet metal. Open it up like a zipper, the whole length of the panel.

 ScottFromWyoming wrote: 
It's ok to let Scott borrow the truck.

 Lazy8 wrote: 
Right, well I don't hit the brakes on long downhills, I steer the thing into the guardrail and let the passenger side take the heat.

 ScottFromWyoming wrote: 


I started using ceramic brake pads after having the same warping issue. They seem to work better and I haven't had a problem yet after 25000 miles ( I replaced the rotors too), but will need more milage to know for sure.

ScottFromWyoming wrote:
Rotor warp can be measured on the car. You need a dial indicator to put a number on it, but just having a pointer in close proximity to the disc will let you see runout by watching the gap between the rotor surface and the pointer. Spin the hub and watch the gap.

If something else has happened—a change in metallurgy of the rotor from overheating or pad material sticking to the rotor, say— you should see that in the surface.

Hard stops—locking up the wheels, say—don't do much damage. Heat does. Riding the brakes down a pass or lots of trailer towing puts lots of kinetic energy into the rotors, and that's where you hurt rotors.

 Lazy8 wrote: 
The rotors *look* smooth; it's the pulsing/throbbing sensation that says they're warped, altho the comment from justlistening carries a LOT of weight because these were turned and the problem came back almost immediately... within a couple of weeks, if that. And I don't recall any slam-on-the-brakes hard stops, ever, in this truck... I'm gunshy from having driven my dad's Yukon, which would have this warping problem constantly. Don't know what the cure for it is (pad material fused to the rotor) but if new rotors isn't the answer then hey, money saved.

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
  There is also a special spray made for the back of brake pads. 'Brake Anti-Squeal' or something like that. It dries to a rubbery goo and damps the vibrations (squealing). It's pretty easy to apply, just lay the pads out friction side down, spray the stuff on, let it dry while you're pulling the old pads out. Don't get it on the friction surface!

For general brake squealing though, sometimes a good flushing with, wait for it, 'Brake Cleaner' removes enough grit and crud to make the noise stop. There are two types, chlorinated and non-chlorinated. The first uses trichloroethane (or ethylene, I can never keep 'em straight), the other uses acetone and alcohol. Either one works fine for cleaning brakes, but the acetone can dissolve plastics. Both dry quickly and leave no residue. Brake cleaner is also great for removing adhesives and the like, but use caution 'cause it can dissolve paint too. I also use it whenever I'm spray-painting, to remove all the oil/grease/fingerprints/pizza stains.

 Manbird wrote: 

Kee your damned foot off that big black thing next to the gas pedal!

Re: Heavy duty rotors: Heavy duty doesn't necessarily mean thicker. It can mean a better grade of material. Rotors are iron but can be composite with carbon, etc.

Re warping: i read an article once claiming warping is a misnomer, it is actually uneven depositing of brake material that has bonded to the disc due to high heat from hard breaking. Turning rotors may not help because the deposits can embed deeply.

 Manbird wrote: 
Spray water on them and leave them overnight.  Rust will form, which will wear away the first time you stop.  I'm not sure exactly exactly why this works, it was recommended to me by my dealership and it's always worked great.

 ScottFromWyoming wrote: 
I'm sure someone will say I'm wrong, but rotors are face-hardened.  This hardening only goes so deep and when it's gone, so is the rotor.  Turning it thins it even more, frequently to the point of warping.  For me, a break job is new pads & new rotors.  It's a few bucks, but it's your brakes, man.  They're kinda important.

ScottFromWyoming wrote:
Your calipers will only fit so much between the pads. Not sure what "heavy duty" means, but if your car didn't come with them chances are they won't fit.

For what it's worth I never turn rotors, just put new pads on. The grooves in the rotors wear into the pads soon enough and if the car had adequate braking performance just before you changed the pads it will have adequate performance once the pads wear in. The only reason to turn them is to guarantee that the first couple of stops will have full contact, which doesn't matter near as much as it sounds like it would. Expect things to be a little mushy until the pads seat, maybe 3-4 hard stops.

The one exception is if a rotor warps, but there often isn't enough meat to fix that anyway.

If your rotors have 1/4" deep grooves in them and you don't change them after reading this remember you read it on the internet and it serves you and the bus full of orphans you plow into right.

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote: 
Hey, I'd love to come down there - and bring my hawks - all that open space...