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Index » Music » Whatever » Surfing! Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9  Next
Post to this Topic
kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Jan 31, 2023 - 4:17am

You haven't lived until you have climbed up and down these cliffs barefoot with a 10 foot 40 lb board.
.
 
thisbody

thisbody Avatar

Gender: Male


Posted: Jan 24, 2023 - 2:15am

Chasing Mavericks is a movie for folks here, remembering the golden days of big surf in Cali:
https://www.bearsurfboards.eu/...
kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Jan 23, 2023 - 11:14pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
Why am I enthralled with surfing videos?
 
Cuz, who doesn't like surfing ?




KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Jan 23, 2023 - 9:08pm

Why am I enthralled with surfing videos?
kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Jan 23, 2023 - 9:04am

miamizsun

miamizsun Avatar

Location: (3261.3 Miles SE of RP)
Gender: Male


Posted: May 27, 2022 - 4:32am

 black321 wrote:



the perfect line for that wave...
black321

black321 Avatar

Location: An earth without maps
Gender: Male


Posted: May 26, 2022 - 12:36pm


KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: May 2, 2022 - 8:53pm

 kurtster wrote:

Who knew ? Produced by Mike Nesmith no less ...

One of my two goofy foot idols. David Nuuhiwa was the other.  I used to say that the knobs on my knees were bigger than Corky's.  and they were ...

.




kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: May 2, 2022 - 1:04pm

Who knew ? Produced by Mike Nesmith no less ...

One of my two goofy foot idols. David Nuuhiwa was the other.  I used to say that the knobs on my knees were bigger than Corky's.  and they were ...

.
KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 22, 2022 - 8:15pm

 miamizsun wrote:


how about the top of your noggin?
looks a bit sandblasted too
*giggle*

edit: i had a nasty hip grinder once, looked like i was clawed by a wild animal (body fat really is white)
You know what they say...
Bald in front: Thinker.
Bald in back: Lover
Bald all over: Think they're a lover.

That picture was taken over 12 years ago.
That spot has stayed the same since then.
I've had thin hair there since at least... my wife told me when we were dating in '74.
I've been a lover since... before then.
Some things never change.




miamizsun

miamizsun Avatar

Location: (3261.3 Miles SE of RP)
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 22, 2022 - 5:22am

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:

This Kurt likes this story.
Yep. Even sand can hurt in big waves.
Not to mention sand blasting.








how about the top of your noggin?
looks a bit sandblasted too
*giggle*

edit: i had a nasty hip grinder once, looked like i was clawed by a wild animal (body fat really is white)
whatshisname

whatshisname Avatar

Location: West OZ
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 20, 2022 - 7:22pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:


Yep. Even sand can hurt in big waves.
Not to mention sand blasting.







Then there's those funny little "giddie up " heart beats you can also have on seeing the fin of a big White Pointer gliding by just as you know you are about to be crunched on the bottom.



KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 20, 2022 - 5:45pm

 kurtster wrote:

This Kurt likes this story.
Yep. Even sand can hurt in big waves.
Not to mention sand blasting.






kurtster

kurtster Avatar

Location: where fear is not a virtue
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 19, 2022 - 11:05pm

 KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
 miamizsun wrote:

that's an unbelievably massive wave
i'm not sure the depth at the trough below but that guy is clearly in a hazardous position
i've been slammed and more or less "mandolined" at the bottom of a small wave
being pushed into the sandy bottom with big wave on top of you is scary
now imagine a reef/coral or nasty slag/rocks down there
Just diving under a wave is pretty intense.
A big, 18 footer for me once or twice... maybe 6 times. Many more with 12's -14's.
Can you imagine the weight of that wave.

Can you imagine the pressure.

That's when you become ONE with nature. And your ears will let you know.
 
There was a book written by Willard Bascom that I read as a kid.  Waves and Beaches.  In it among lots of other things that I learned about the fluid dynamics of the ocean was the mention that water pressure in a breaking wave has been measured in tons per square foot.  I read that book over and over again as I got to experience what he was talking about while surfing and just being at the beach.  It is never fun getting caught back in the tube and getting sucked completely over the falls and slamming on the bottom.  That brief moment of weightlessness is brought to a sudden screeching halt with the impact.  The rest is like being caught inside a giant washing machine that has no mercy.  The only lucky thing about sand is it is not coral or rocks.

While everyone was talking about Marine Biology I was all about Marine Geology.  I wanted to study beaches and erosion and other things as an excuse to travel the world and go surfing where ever there were rideable waves.  My girlfriend who is now my wife, and I had it all figured out.  We were going to get a boat ala Michner's Adventures in Paradise and sail around the South Pacific.  I would be the marine geologist and she would be a school teacher.  While it didn't exactly go that way, we still ended up together.

Bascom is credited with coming up with the idea of using neoprene for wetsuits and many other things.  Remember Sealab down at Scripp's in La Jolla ?  Astronaut Scott Carpenter and Ricky Grigg were both Aquanauts onboard. Grigg was my role model when it was all said and done.  I was going to go to OCC, transfer down to UCSD and eventually over to Scripp's.  Pretty lofty goals.  Well, maybe not OCC, but the rest was. {#Mrgreen}  Then there was the war and lot's of other things, but as mentioned above, I still got the girl.

More on Ricky Grigg I just dug up.

Ricky Grigg, 1937-2014
LAST KNOWN INTERVIEW WITH THE SUNSET MASTER AND OCEANOGRAPHY PROFESSOR


KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 19, 2022 - 9:50pm

 miamizsun wrote:

that's an unbelievably massive wave
i'm not sure the depth at the trough below but that guy is clearly in a hazardous position
i've been slammed and more or less "mandolined" at the bottom of a small wave
being pushed into the sandy bottom with big wave on top of you is scary
now imagine a reef/coral or nasty slag/rocks down there

Just diving under a wave is pretty intense.
A big, 18 footer for me once or twice... maybe 6 times. Many more with 12's -14's.
Can you imagine the weight of that wave.
Can you imagine the pressure.
That's when you become ONE with nature. And your ears will let you know.

Coaxial

Coaxial Avatar

Location: Getting comfortably numb in So Tex
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 19, 2022 - 9:02am

 whatshisname wrote:
 NoEnzLefttoSplit wrote:

wow, is that pose called  "getting some air"?
 
I think this is the Downward Facing Buggered.{#Yes}
miamizsun

miamizsun Avatar

Location: (3261.3 Miles SE of RP)
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 19, 2022 - 7:13am

 NoEnzLefttoSplit wrote:
 
 
that's an unbelievably massive wave
i'm not sure the depth at the trough below but that guy is clearly in a hazardous position
i've been slammed and more or less "mandolined" at the bottom of a small wave
being pushed into the sandy bottom with big wave on top of you is scary
now imagine a reef/coral or nasty slag/rocks down there

whatshisname

whatshisname Avatar

Location: West OZ
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 18, 2022 - 11:52pm

 NoEnzLefttoSplit wrote:



wow, is that pose called  "getting some air"?

KurtfromLaQuinta

KurtfromLaQuinta Avatar

Location: Really deep in the heart of South California
Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 18, 2022 - 9:41pm

 NoEnzLefttoSplit wrote:
Picture doesn't show on forum page... but I see it on the reply page.
Great shot!


NoEnzLefttoSplit

NoEnzLefttoSplit Avatar

Gender: Male


Posted: Feb 18, 2022 - 12:47pm

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