Location: Really deep in the heart of South California Gender:
Posted:
Dec 23, 2025 - 4:02pm
Steely_D wrote:
The remodel was a decade ago, so although I have my complaints, theEve light switch was OK until
a few months ago, spontaneously died. I unwired it, put it back in, worked fine until
two days ago, same thing. No indicator light on the unit and garage light stuck in ON.
I threw the breaker for a few minutes but it didn't reset as hoped.
So, figured to replace it with a non-HomeKit plain old on/off that I had a couple of from previous swap outs to other Eve switches.
The Eve switch has a white, green, red, and black going to it.
The plain switch has the green and black clearly labeled and two unlabeled screws. I'm thinking that my mistake is putting a white on one of those, when it really should be for a (nonexistent here) second red leading to another fixture.
But I hooked up all four wires and in both cases, giving it power blew the breaker with sparks and two little Xs over its eyes.
So, tomorrow I ought to get another of those breakers - completely identical to the one I'm replacing - and I'll use a simple on/off with three connections: green, black, one red. I won't attach the white.
A replacement Eve switch ought be here after the weekend and I'll put that in with its mandatory white wire and pray.
Yes, I'm wearing gloves and heavy soled shoes. It's outside and the gravel I'm on isn't soaked, but here comes the Pineapple Express...
For 120 volt situations...
Green wire is a ground.
White is the neutral.
Red is usually the "traveler lead" for 3 or 4 way switching.
Black is the hot lead. That's the one that will shock you... especially if you ground it.
I knew this electrician who was a wizard at figuring out things that most other electricians couldn't.
He was a really nice guy who retired a few years back.
The remodel was a decade ago, so although I have my complaints, theEve light switch was OK until
a few months ago, spontaneously died. I unwired it, put it back in, worked fine until
two days ago, same thing. No indicator light on the unit and garage light stuck in ON.
I threw the breaker for a few minutes but it didn't reset as hoped.
So, figured to replace it with a non-HomeKit plain old on/off that I had a couple of from previous swap outs to other Eve switches.
The Eve switch has a white, green, red, and black going to it.
The plain switch has the green and black clearly labeled and two unlabeled screws. I'm thinking that my mistake is putting a white on one of those, when it really should be for a (nonexistent here) second red leading to another fixture.
But I hooked up all four wires and in both cases, giving it power blew the breaker with sparks and two little Xs over its eyes.
So, tomorrow I ought to get another of those breakers - completely identical to the one I'm replacing - and I'll use a simple on/off with three connections: green, black, one red. I won't attach the white.
A replacement Eve switch ought be here after the weekend and I'll put that in with its mandatory white wire and pray.
Yes, I'm wearing gloves and heavy soled shoes. It's outside and the gravel I'm on isn't soaked, but here comes the Pineapple Express...
Location: At the dude ranch / above the sea Gender:
Posted:
Dec 23, 2025 - 3:36pm
kurtster wrote:
Back to the beginning.
In the garage. It was working until it wasn't. How long was it working until it wasn't ?
Just thinking out loud. So if it was fine for a couple of years until it wasn't, something happened in the circuit from the box to the switch in the garage. Or you mentioned a remodel, so it wasn't working that long.
Anyway, an intermittent now permanent short. Any good shaking quakes lately ? Critters eating at the insulation ? Water leaking in from somewhere ?
The remodel was a decade ago, so although I have my complaints, theEve light switch was OK until
a few months ago, spontaneously died. I unwired it, put it back in, worked fine until
two days ago, same thing. No indicator light on the unit and garage light stuck in ON.
I threw the breaker for a few minutes but it didn't reset as hoped.
So, figured to replace it with a non-HomeKit plain old on/off that I had a couple of from previous swap outs to other Eve switches.
The Eve switch has a white, green, red, and black going to it.
The plain switch has the green and black clearly labeled and two unlabeled screws. I'm thinking that my mistake is putting a white on one of those, when it really should be for a (nonexistent here) second red leading to another fixture.
But I hooked up all four wires and in both cases, giving it power blew the breaker with sparks and two little Xs over its eyes.
So, tomorrow I ought to get another of those breakers - completely identical to the one I'm replacing - and I'll use a simple on/off with three connections: green, black, one red. I won't attach the white.
A replacement Eve switch ought be here after the weekend and I'll put that in with its mandatory white wire and pray.
Yes, I'm wearing gloves and heavy soled shoes. It's outside and the gravel I'm on isn't soaked, but here comes the Pineapple Express...
Well…I had a funky light switch in the garage that wasn’t responding to Siri commands. Happened a few months ago and a reset fixed it, but now no. So I shut down the breaker and replaced it with a simple on-off switch.
Back to the beginning.
In the garage. It was working until it wasn't. How long was it working until it wasn't ?
Just thinking out loud. So if it was fine for a couple of years until it wasn't, something happened in the circuit from the box to the switch in the garage. Or you mentioned a remodel, so it wasn't working that long.
Anyway, an intermittent now permanent short. Any good shaking quakes lately ? Critters eating at the insulation ? Water leaking in from somewhere ?
Thx. I have the metal bar. Just replaced it, no problem, then flipped the power on and...sparks and it's dead. Dammit.
Went back to the wall with the wiring and it's so simple it's killing me. There's a white, red, black, and green. That's not hard at all. Grrrrrrrr.
Now I have to hop on bike (Better Half⢠has the car) and got pay another $50+ for a replacement and STILL need to figure out what's the problem.
Or maybe engage an electrician, but the last time I did that to help with the three-switch setup that the remodel electrician installed (before he killed himself) - and the guy could not figure out the wiring set up either and I was out the service fee without getting a result. So calling one in for this seems just as frustrating. Grrrrrr.
And I have a dinner party on Thursday, so it would be spectacular to have lights working in my kitchen.
What were the conditions at failure? Did breakers just trip? Any recent or past replacement work? Any past issues at all with this breaker/circuits? Is it isolated to overhead lighting and wall switches or just sockets? Are the circuits identified? What if anything was plugged in and running at the time? Do you have aluminum or copper cable? Failures that happen suddenly with no apparent cause are usually drawn to failure by a current surge on the circuit for some reason. Like a broken switch contact or loosened wire nut in the service box.
Exactly where are sparks coming from? The breaker itself? And no others in the panel seem to be affected? Sorry. Just a brainstorm without actually being able to see anything. Just be careful. I tell people all the time that yeah, diy plumbing can be a bad day but diy electricity can be a really really bad day. Good luck with it. It will be interesting to hear what you find.
Location: At the dude ranch / above the sea Gender:
Posted:
Dec 23, 2025 - 11:04am
islander wrote:
Ah, those are generally called 'space savers', they put two single pole breakers into the space of one single pole. Yours (if yours matches the picture with the metal bars) is extra special because the inside and outside poles appear to be tied, so a trip on one line will force the other line to disconnect too, but from separate phases. That's a bit of a funky/ special setup. If it's just all the breakers without the cross ties, I think you would still technically call it a 4 pole because there are 4 circuits you are disconnecting. But typically a 4 pole would have 4 inputs as well, typically more on the commercial side of things - 3 phase power + a neutral.
Disclaimer - I mostly work on boats and off-grid which is just adjacent to 'Real' electricians.
Thx. I have the metal bar. Just replaced it, no problem, then flipped the power on and...sparks and it's dead. Dammit.
Went back to the wall with the wiring and it's so simple it's killing me. There's a white, red, black, and green. That's not hard at all. Grrrrrrrr.
Now I have to hop on bike (Better Half⢠has the car) and got pay another $50+ for a replacement and STILL need to figure out what's the problem.
Or maybe engage an electrician, but the last time I did that to help with the three-switch setup that the remodel electrician installed (before he killed himself) - and the guy could not figure out the wiring set up either and I was out the service fee without getting a result. So calling one in for this seems just as frustrating. Grrrrrr.
And I have a dinner party on Thursday, so it would be spectacular to have lights working in my kitchen.
This thing here, but each is 15a. Looks like it'll be a simple 1:1 rewiring. But then I have to address the reason it fried.
Disclaimer: I took a semester of electrical engineering in college 5 decades ago so I could rewire my synth. Made an A in the DC section, but failed the AC section, since I haven't done the requisite math yet.
Ah, those are generally called 'space savers', they put two single pole breakers into the space of one single pole. Yours (if yours matches the picture with the metal bars) is extra special because the inside and outside poles appear to be tied, so a trip on one line will force the other line to disconnect too, but from separate phases. That's a bit of a funky/ special setup. If it's just all the breakers without the cross ties, I think you would still technically call it a 4 pole because there are 4 circuits you are disconnecting. But typically a 4 pole would have 4 inputs as well, typically more on the commercial side of things - 3 phase power + a neutral.
Disclaimer - I mostly work on boats and off-grid which is just adjacent to 'Real' electricians.
Location: At the dude ranch / above the sea Gender:
Posted:
Dec 23, 2025 - 9:54am
islander wrote:
"Load side, line side... they both start with L and that matches the L on this wire..." (actually said to me by a client).
Edit: - 4 pole breaker? 2 ins and 2 outs is still a 2 pole. Just so you don't get 'the look' at HomeDepot.
This thing here, but each is 15a. Looks like it'll be a simple 1:1 rewiring. But then I have to address the reason it fried.
Disclaimer: I took a semester of electrical engineering in college 5 decades ago so I could rewire my synth. Made an A in the DC section, but failed the AC section, since I haven't done the requisite math yet.
Wellâ¦I had a funky light switch in the garage that wasnât responding to Siri commands. Happened a few months ago and a reset fixed it, but now no.
So I shut down the breaker and replaced it with a simple on-off switch.
Turned the breaker back on andâ¦buzzing->sparks->I flipped it off.
Breaker is now pining for the fjords, so Iâm gonna have to shut down the whole house power and replace the four pole breaker after I get a fresh one from HomeDepot. And then figure out why it fried in the first place. (Iâve already tossed the replacement light switch.)
I have never done this before, so
fellas, itâs been good to know yaâ¦
"Load side, line side... they both start with L and that matches the L on this wire..." (actually said to me by a client).
Edit: - 4 pole breaker? 2 ins and 2 outs is still a 2 pole. Just so you don't get 'the look' at HomeDepot.
Well…I had a funky light switch in the garage that wasn’t responding to Siri commands. Happened a few months ago and a reset fixed it, but now no. So I shut down the breaker and replaced it with a simple on-off switch. Turned the breaker back on and…buzzing->sparks->I flipped it off. Breaker is now pining for the fjords, so I’m gonna have to shut down the whole house power and replace the four pole breaker after I get a fresh one from HomeDepot. And then figure out why it fried in the first place. (I’ve already tossed the replacement light switch.)
I have never done this before, so fellas, it’s been good to know ya…
Location: At the dude ranch / above the sea Gender:
Posted:
Dec 22, 2025 - 8:40pm
Wellâ¦I had a funky light switch in the garage that wasnât responding to Siri commands. Happened a few months ago and a reset fixed it, but now no.
So I shut down the breaker and replaced it with a simple on-off switch.
Turned the breaker back on andâ¦buzzing->sparks->I flipped it off.
Breaker is now pining for the fjords, so Iâm gonna have to shut down the whole house power and replace the four pole breaker after I get a fresh one from HomeDepot. And then figure out why it fried in the first place. (Iâve already tossed the replacement light switch.)
I have never done this before, so
fellas, itâs been good to know yaâ¦
I don't like getting cat duty at our clinics. They are just weird. A pain to handle before anesthesia, hard to dose, their eyes stay open when they are 'out', then after surgery it's completely random on how long they are out and how much time it takes them to recover. Girls are a LOT harder than boys for the surgery as well. So 2 hours doesn't seem unreasonable for a timeline with padding. The overnight seems like excessive diligence, but we are on the other end of the scale because of necessity. Vets run the whole range though, talk to another and go with your gut feel.
Ya, eyes open...freaky. Luckily our cats are good when at the vet. Since I'm at work it's my wife that goes to the vet. She was there this past week for a vaccination. It was busy, she waited for a while even though we had an appointment and when someone came in later but got served first, she inquired about how much longer it would be. A technician(?) said the vet was pretty busy so he would do the vaccination "at the back" (usually it's done right there where the customer is). After he took Coco, my wife started following him but he told her she wasn't allowed at the back. Well, had I been there I would have said, If I can't go, the cat stays. Anyways, it may not be a big deal but I thought it would have been more professional to inform the customer that "I can do the vaccination at the back, but customers aren't allowed there" and then let the customer decide.
Can't remember being this concerned about one of our cats going to the vet. I must be getting old.
Question: Our little Coco cat girl needs to be 'fixed' soon. Without going into details, we're not too impressed with the local vet shop. Maybe it's us not really understanding how hectic it can get at times but we were told the operation would take at least 2hrs, but that's because of how long it takes to put the cat under. Does that sound right? Then they have to keep the cat for longer after the operation to make sure all is right. I don't recall this happening the last time we had cats 'go under' but they were males. I'm a little worried about our little Coco girl. Any advice much appreciated.
I don't like getting cat duty at our clinics. They are just weird. A pain to handle before anesthesia, hard to dose, their eyes stay open when they are 'out', then after surgery it's completely random on how long they are out and how much time it takes them to recover. Girls are a LOT harder than boys for the surgery as well. So 2 hours doesn't seem unreasonable for a timeline with padding. The overnight seems like excessive diligence, but we are on the other end of the scale because of necessity. Vets run the whole range though, talk to another and go with your gut feel.
Question: Our little Coco cat girl needs to be 'fixed' soon. Without going into details, we're not too impressed with the local vet shop. Maybe it's us not really understanding how hectic it can get at times but we were told the operation would take at least 2hrs, but that's because of how long it takes to put the cat under. Does that sound right? Then they have to keep the cat for longer after the operation to make sure all is right. I don't recall this happening the last time we had cats 'go under' but they were males. I'm a little worried about our little Coco girl. Any advice much appreciated.
Vets generally don't anesthetize males beyond giving them a local. (I KNOW!) Females get put under and they need some recovery time.
We've been doing TNR (trap, neuter, return) here since 2011. We've TNRed 19 cats and gotten some of them adopted. We have one remaining "yard cat" who we care for. Haven't seen another cats in many moons.
Question: Our little Coco cat girl needs to be 'fixed' soon. Without going into details, we're not too impressed with the local vet shop. Maybe it's us not really understanding how hectic it can get at times but we were told the operation would take at least 2hrs, but that's because of how long it takes to put the cat under. Does that sound right? Then they have to keep the cat for longer after the operation to make sure all is right. I don't recall this happening the last time we had cats 'go under' but they were males. I'm a little worried about our little Coco girl. Any advice much appreciated.
This is from Google, but it seems like that might be about right. Bon chance to all three of you.
A cat spay surgery typically takes about 20 to 30 minutes, but the entire process, including anesthesia, prep, and recovery from anesthesia, means your cat will be at the vet for several hours and usually goes home the same day. The actual surgical time is short because it's a common procedure involving removing ovaries and uterus through a small abdominal incision, with closure by sutures or surgical glue.
